Friday, December 2, 2011

I need some help from someone who REALLY knows about fords?

i work at a ford dealership (i answer phones and direct calls) and i dont know why but they are requireing that i be trained in ford product knowledge. ive searched all over the damn ford website for the past 3 days, and there are just a couple of questions i cant find, no matter what. PLEASE HELP im at the banging my head againts the wall stage with this.





OK here goes...





1 when towing, it is vital that the proper hitch be used. what type of hitch is used to distribute tongue load to all towing vehicle and trailer wheels?


A weight distributing hitch


B segmented hitch


C any trailer hitch


D weight carrying hitch





2 what does a four wheel anti lock braking system help provide?


A improved stopping performance thru the action of two separate vehicle braking systems


B straight, more controlled stops, while helping the driver maintain steering control under most road conditions


C continuous brake pressure to stop the vehicle when the driver starts pumping the brake pedal


D the ability to lock out a failing brake and use the other wheels for safe stops





3 what drive mode does the control trac four wheel drive system provide that is not available on fords manual shift on the fly (MSOF) and electronic shift on the fly (ESOF) systems?


A 4X4 LOW


B 4x4 HIGH


C 4x4 AUTO


D 4x2 LOW





4 what is the benefit of dual stage air bags?


A they provide the capability of deploying at high or low output


B they will not deploy if the driver weighs less than 75 pounds to reduce the risk of airbag related injury during a collision


C they deflate and return to their original positions after a collision, eliminating the need for replacement and additional repair costs


D they have a "dual bladder" design to cover more surface area and better protect the occupants head and chest





5 which statement is correct regarding all speed traction control?


A when the traction control system is activated at speeds of 35 mph or higher, the braking system is deactivated and only engine control is used to limit wheel spin


B when the traction control switch is activated, a mechanical lock inside the rear differential housing solidly locks the rear axle shafts together


C the system uses a viscous coupling to mechanically link the drive wheels together for improved performance on slippery surfaces


D the system uses torque converter to increase torque to each wheel when wheel slip is detected





6 how long does the SOS post crash alert system operate?


A until the airbags are completely deflated


B for up to 20 min and then it shuts off


C until it is deactivated or until the battery power is depleted


D until the drivers door is open





7 what feature built into the infrastructure of all ford vehicles helps dissipate the force of the impact?


A front and rear crumple zones


B BlockerBeam


C SPACE (side protection and cabin enhancement) architecture


D hydroformed frame rails





8 what is the benefit of power adjustable brake and accelerator pedals?


A They retract into the floor when the igniton is off to allow easy entry and exit


B They allow drivers of smaller stature to comfortably reach the pedals


C They can be adjusted for hard feel or soft feel


D They have a forward and rearward adjustment of up to 8 inches





9 The driver and right front passenger side airbags are designed to enhance protection of what parts of the body of the driver and right front passenger in certain side impacts?


A legs


B knees


C chest


D hips|||I would find another line of employment. Your cheating off the nerd sitting next to you in school.|||if you answer all these questions correctly.......will you marry me??...i can send you to work for the n.t.s.a.|||Almost





2-B


4-A


5-A|||A.C.C.D.D.D.A.D.

Hyundai Tiburon Owners. I need your help picking out a car.?

Hyundai Tiburon GT V6 Limited:





- Red leather seating surfaces


- Power tilt-and-slide glass sunroof with sliding sunshade


- 2.7L, DOHC, V6 engine


- Automatic temperature control with smog-sensing Air Quality System (AQS)


- 17” alloy wheels


- Leather-wrapped steering wheel


- Driver lumbar support


- Cruise control


- Metalgrain interior trim


- Trip computer


- 5-speed manual transmission


- Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)


- Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)


- Advanced front and front side-impact airbags


- Air conditioning


- Power windows, door locks and heated mirrors


- Remote keyless entry system with alarm


- Sport-tuned suspension


- Kenwood® AM/FM/XM/CD/MP3 audio system


- Low rear spoiler


- In-glass antenna


- Fog lights


- Dual exhaust











OR





Hyundai Tiburon SE:





- 6-speed manual transmission


- Red leather seat bolsters with black cloth inserts


- Cross-drilled front brake rotors with red calipers


- Aluminum foot pedals


- High rear spoiler


- Electronic Stability Control (ESC) with Traction Control System (TCS)


- Manual air conditioning


- Track-tuned sport suspension


- Power tilt-and-slide glass sunroof with sliding sunshade


- 2.7L, DOHC, V6 engine


- 17” alloy wheels


- Leather-wrapped steering wheel


- Driver lumbar support


- Cruise control


- Metalgrain interior trim


- Trip computer


- Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)


- Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)


- Advanced front and front side-impact airbags


- Air conditioning


- Power windows, door locks and heated mirrors


- Remote keyless entry system with alarm


- Kenwood® AM/FM/XM/CD/MP3 audio system


- In-glass antenna


- Fog lights


- Dual exhaust|||i would go with the 6 speed, the only reason i can see for it using a little more gas is because the ratios are so close that it keeps the rpm's up higher that is uses a bit more. but the tib 2.7 liter engine likes to rev once you pas 3,200 rpm's you can just feel it start to take off. the engine as a big torque spike at that rpm range.





if you want more info join newtiburon.com they will help ya out with anything you need.





good luck with the tib|||I would run with the SE. better gas potential with 6 gears|||I can not say for sure about the newer ones but I have a 2003 and in that year the six speed got the worse gas millage of all the other transmissions. (that included the auto transmission) The Auto was also faster that the six speed. Now if you want to sound cool and like to shift I would go with the six speed transmission. Whatever you chose, enjoy the car as I really enjoy mine.|||neither.





08 chevy malibu


08 pontiac solsitce/saturn sky|||I am into performance, so I would go with the SE.


It has a 6 speed manual transmission instead of 5 speed.


It also accelerates faster.


0-60mph in 7.2 seconds for the GT SE and 7.6 seconds for the GT Limited.

What are my chances of being found not guilty for failing to stop when the car wasnt mine and had bad brakes?

My car was in the process of being repaired when my friend A dropped off her car at my work location so that i may borrow her car so that my co-worker B and I have a ride home. I was pulled over about 5 miles from my work location when as i gradually pushed on the brakes since it didnt have ABS (anti-lock brake system). before i knew it i had past the stop sign. lucky for all of us there was no cars coming but a chp passing. he saw and immidiately made a U-turn and gave me the ticket. I didnt argue the fact that i passed the stop sign but i would like to know if i have a chance in winning this since i had little time to realize how bad were the brakes. Prior to that road i was pulled over i was approximately driving below 40mph. I will never borrow an old car!!|||maybe but I have to ask this. In the five miles from your job to the stop sign didn't you use the breaks at all?*|||pretty low percentage.. maybe 10 percent, and that is better than what I wanted to say, at 0%..|||No chance. You were the driver and it is your responsibility to know what you are driving and to stop in time. ABS wouldn't even play into it.





Another factor is that you chose to drive this car. You had other options. Another friend, a rental car, public trans, etc. You weren't forced as no one can force you to drive a particular car. Once you get behind the wheel, it is all yours.|||I agree with the others. You drove that car for 5 miles. Unlikley that you had to used the brakes. Your chances of being found not guilty are very slim at best.|||The law simply states a full and complete stop. It doesn't mention bad brakes or bad drivers. But go ahead and waste the judges time, it will amuse him.|||Judge won't buy that you did not use the brakes once in 5 miles.





Sure you could pay to have the brakes checked and all of that. But it would still come down to the fact that you did not stop..... and you were in charge of the vehicle.





It would probably be best to just pay the ticket and get it over with.

Jeep Cherokee 1989 ABS?

Is there a way to disable, disconnect, unplug, or remove the Anti-Lock Brake System for a Jeep Cherokee 1989 4WD 4.0L V6 4-Door?|||ABS makes a chattering or hammering noise when activated. If your brakes lock up without chattering, there's no ABS.|||you can totally remove the entire system from it and you,ll go back to standard brakes,i have done that before for a customer that hated having anti lock brakes,you have to remove every part of it though and change the lines around also,but they will work fine like that,that's what a lot of people are doing when they cant get the anti lock system to work right is have it removed,you still have power brakes just minus the anti lock feature,you also have to remove the anti lock brake light bulb from the dash or it will stay on until the bulb burns out,but its perfectly safe to do this if that's what you want to do,i have done this numerous times and have had no problems from doing it,good luck|||4.0 is an inline 6 or I6 not a V6





anyway, an easy way to tell if it is working. get up to a decent speed, 30 or 40 should be plenty enough..and lock em up, if the tires actually lock up and skid, chances are it is not working properly. ABS prevents locking up the tires so you can still steer the vehicle from danger if need be.

Jeep Cherokee 1989 ABS?

Is there a way to disable, disconnect, unplug, or remove the Anti-Lock Brake System for a Jeep Cherokee 1989 4WD 4.0L V6 4-Door?|||I believe there is a relay and a "brain", basically an ecu for the system under the hood for the ABS and if you remove them, I'm pretty sure it disables the system, as well as the dash light. Just don't ever mention to your insurance company that you did, you usually get discounts for abs and things like that!|||IMPORTANT...To answer your question, yes, you can go to a junk yard with similar year and pull the master cylinder and piping. Exchange components as you are there.


HOWEVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am not kidding, you have a LIFETIME warranty on the ABS pump and master cylinder!!!!!!!!!!! Have 1990 and Jeep has replaced it three times..FOC!!! Go to the jeep dealer!!!!





One more point, if you completely disable your ABS, the pump will not work and you have NO POWER Brake assist.


This is not like some later systems.|||In order to disable the Anti-Lock Brake you need to simply pull the relay.|||Pull the relay.

If you are driving a vehicle equipped with... HELP ME!!!?

If you are driving a vehicle equipped with an anti-lock brake system (ABS). and the vehicle starts to skid, you should: Turn the steering wheel ___________________.





a) In the direction you want the front of the vehicle to go.





b) In the opposite direction you want the front of the vehicle to go.





c) Back and forth in both directions.





d) Do not turn the steering wheel.











Please Help!!





Thank you SO MUCH in advance!!!





^_^|||D

Brakes, Calipers and Rotor "Problem" for 2001 Z24 Cavalier?

My car has had a strange low "wooing" sound since October 2007. I've been to three different places with three different opinions:





(1) need a new wheel barring (replaced and paid $300.. noise is still there)


(2) need four new tires -- the noise is "tire noise"


(3) Anti-lock Brake System needs major repair





We definitely need new brakes, but apparently the noise is a result of the rotors and something being completely destroyed.





We were told that the car doesn't have any front brakes and is extremely dangerous to drive right now. It is stopping with the rear brakes. Obviously it's not safe to drive without brakes, but if this is the true problem, we have been driving the car for 2 1/2 months. I'm freaking out because I just had a baby 10 days ago and don't want to take any risks.





We were quoted a minimum of $500.





How legit does this sound? Has anyone had this problem before? Advice?|||I would rule out the anti-lock problem unless the anti-lock brake light on the dash is on and I have still never heard an anti-lock brake system make any noises like that, are you sure they replaced the right wheel bearing?, the other side could have been bad all along and finally if you need new brake pads I would get them put on and 2 new rotors as those rotors are really cheap to buy at the parts store, like $18 each.|||The front brake pads have little metal peaces that will rub against the brake rotors when the pads wear down. since you have had the same brake pads on the car for SIX YEARS than this tells me that you are in Dyer need of a brake job. I would have new front rotors and pads installed and new rear drums and pads installed. If your tires where making this noise than they would be bald they would have no tread on them at all. If the well bearing was bad than you would only hear it on one side. Also when the mechanic that "fixed" the wheel bearing was working on your car he should have examined the brakes any ways and told you what the car needed.|||well alright i had a situation were the peice of the metal that held the brake pad in place stuck out and made a loud sound when ever i moved my car it was very noticeable and it was just a little peice of metal that i took off it sounds like thats what it is|||that wooing noise maybe a roaring sound? , to me could sound like a wheel bearing,i guess he thought so too,its just strange that you need to remove the brakes to change the wheel bearing and he said nothing about them, if they were that bad it should have been obvious,how does the car stop? if you are only stopping on your back brakes it is going to take longer to stop, enough to where you should notice a difference. take it somewhere else get a second opinion, something does not sound right|||Revisit that "fixed" hub bearing,cause it sounds like your mech. may have put on a used bearing. As far as the brakes,you will definitely need new pads and rotors,and before anyone does the job,find a reputable service center to do a thorough check,including the wheel bearing assemblies.


Now,even though $500.00 sounds steep,as long as a reputable shop does the job,then safety and quality will not be an issue.

ABS & ESP manufacturers in Australia?

Hi,


Would you please lintroduce me some manufacturers of automotive ABS(Anti lock Brake System) and ESP(Electronic Stability Control) systems in Australia?


Thanks a lot


Vahid|||General Motors-Holden....

Jeep Cherokee 1989 ABS?

Is there a way to disable, disconnect, unplug, or remove the Anti-Lock Brake System for a Jeep Cherokee 1989 4WD 4.0L V6 4-Door?|||Either beside the master cylinder or farther down by the frame is the ABS actuator. You can unplug the connector from it, and pull the ABS fuse from the fuse panel. If the light stays on and bothers you you could pull the bulb from the cluster.





To tell if it worked, do you mean if the system does work now? That would be to have a friend watch you as you take the jeep to a empty parking lot where you can get it up to 30+ and slam on the brake really hard and fast to the floor and have him see if the rear wheels lock up at all. If they do lock up and slide then the system is malfunctioning. If they slow down hard and a fraction of a second lock then release and continue to slow down the jeep then they are working fine. If the ABS light is on then the system will not work but the regular braking system will.





To tell if disconnecting the wire to the actuator does the trick? Well once it is not connected the ABS module will not be able to make the actuator work.





If you have any question regarding the system feel free to email me and I will get back with you.

Problems with front brakes on 02 F-250?

I need the prop. method to open the calipers to replace pads. I am not sure how the anti-lock brake system effects moving the pistons back in|||Get yourself a piston caliper tool, about $10 at most auto parts stores, then as you are using the tool to push the piston back in, open the bleeder screw. This will allow the fluid to go out the bleeder screw and not be pushed back into the ABS. When you are done installing the brakes, bleed them using a hand held vacuum pump. Do not pump the brakes to bleed them, this can also damage your ABS.|||most all calipers have removable pistons. if you just need to compress the piston then you can use c clamps or rent a caliper press from most any part store. if the piston came out u just have to be patient and slowly put back in. compress the piston as far as it will go and then install your pads and finish up|||Large pair of channel locks, or c clamp and just push the piston back in. Just be sure to take cap off brake resvour. And after done with putting back together be sure to pump the brakes really well to push the piston and pads back toward rotor.|||Big channel lock pliers will work fine. But please lay a towel or a rag over the brake fluid reservoir befor you start. Sometimes fluid will spray out and get everything wet. You know brake fluid will take the paint off of antthing it touches.

Anti-lock Brakes and Drum brakes?

I have always wondered about how the abs system works on cars with a front disc/rear drum layout. Does abs only work on wheels that are disc or will it work on wheels that are drum as well? So on a car like this would only the front (disc brakes) have the abs feature? Thanks|||There is a gear-like disc attached to the inside of the wheel, %26amp; a sensor that almost touches it. When the wheel rotates, the sensor counts the number of gear teeth that pass by it, %26amp; thru that the computer can tell exactly how fast that wheel is turning. This gear disc is separate from the brakes, so it can be used with disc or drum brakes.|||The gear is in the rear end around the ring and it picks up its signal using a magnet that mounts on the housing...

What is my car worth?

It's a 2002 Chev Cavalier, plain (no power windows or cc, etc.) has anti-lock brake system 70 000 km on it, no rust or dents, no engine problems, nothing. Automatic.|||http://www.cars.com/go/kbb/kbbMain.jsp?y鈥?/a>


$4500-5500|||Excellent


$4,230





Good


$3,830





Fair


$3,380


|||Around 9,000 to 15,000 since its in mint condition.|||10000 but depend on car engine and outlook|||check kelly blue book, or NADA website to get a ball park figure!|||Go to http://www.kbb.com and enter all the information there for a good general idea.....

What is vehicle abs and ebs?

Now a days coming in all vehicle eqipped with ABS and EBS mans anti lock braking system and electonic braking system...but what is the defination and function of thease?|||ABS kicks in when you really cram the brake pedal down, like in a panic stop. Without ABS, all four wheels will lock-up in a panic stop, which means you have no steering. The ABS system will pulse the brakes, keeping them almost locked, but allowing a tiny bit of wheel rotation, so you will still have some steering available. You do not have to do anything different to get the advantage of the ABS braking, %26amp; you will feel the pulsing in the brake pedal.|||ABS and EBS is samething different name. EBS Electronic braking system.





An anti-lock braking system (ABS) is a safety system that allows the wheels on a motor vehicle to continue interacting tractively with the road surface as directed by driver steering inputs while braking, preventing the wheels from locking up (that is, ceasing rotation) and therefore avoiding skidding.





An ABS generally offers improved vehicle control and decreases stopping distances on dry and slippery surfaces for many drivers; however, on loose surfaces like gravel or snow-covered pavement, an ABS can significantly increase braking distance, although still improving vehicle control.[1]





Since initial widespread use in production cars, anti-lock braking systems have evolved considerably. Recent versions not only prevent wheel lock under braking, but also electronically control the front-to-rear brake bias. This function, depending on its specific capabilities and implementation, is known as electronic brakeforce distribution (EBD), traction control system, emergency brake assist, or electronic stability control (ESC).

Does the Toyota Corolla S 2008 have ABS?

I'm about to start driving soon and a Toyota Corolla Type-S 2008 is already waiting for me downstairs, but I just came from driving school and we started talking about how ABS could allow me to have more control over my vehicle during snow, rain etc. I need to know this just in case when I hit the road if I have to pump my brakes OR if I just have to stomp on it.








ABS I mean Anti-Lock Brake System..|||ABS was an option on all '08 Corollas. Other safety options like brake assist, side curtain airbags, and front seat side airbags were also optional.





Since it is not always easy to tell if these things come on the car, take the car to the dealer and talk to a service adviser. They can tell you what optional safety features are on the car.|||It is an option.


To Determine ABS or not - trurn ignition ON (do not start) - and watch the lights in the instrument panel. Most of the lights only stay on for a couple seconds - so you may have to turn on and off several times to see them all. If you see an "ABS" check light come on - then the vehicle has ABS.|||Anti means against....





brake system





Against brake system








hahahahahahahahaaaaa|||I just traded in my 2007 Corolla S, it did have ABS but it was an optional thing I paid extra for, it doesn't come standard.|||Yes and so you know when car has ABS the emergency brake is back up to brakes if they fail.

I am confused about my car it is a 2004 Ford Explorer and I am dumb when it comes to cars!?

I was wondering it has no four wheel drive and it has no front wheel drive how do you tell if it has rear wheel drive? What is the anti lock braking system for does it substatute for front wheel drive? It has Michalin tires cross terrain teadwear 480 traction A Temp B are those kind of tires good for winter? Are these all season tires? What is the panic button for on the keys and the red light tat flashes on the dash when the car is off is this an anti theft system? Thanks for all the answers!|||The red flashing light is to indicate that the Alarm is engaged. It's rear wheel drive if there is no four wheel drive. Anti-lock breaks do nothing regarding four wheel or two wheel drive performance, all about breaking, they are good to have on ice and snow however. The panic button just sets off your alarm if you see someone around your car and want the alarm to go off, or so you can find it in a dense parkinglot. Your tires are okay in the winter, they're all season which is good because snow tires must be changed once the snow and ice are gone.|||If it doesn't have 4 wheel drive, and goes down the road, it definitely has rear wheel drive if it doesn't have front wheel drive. Otherwise it would just sit there.





Open the glove box, look for a manual. It will tell you all about the car and how to use the various controls, and what the flashing lights mean.|||oklatom is correct in saying it is rear wheel drive. anti lock braking is for when your vehicles wheels are not all turning the same speed it takes over and will brake to try to make you avoid an accident. Talk to a tech at a dealership, they will be glad to assist you. If you need anything else email me at rtrobinson@cell1net.net

How can I tell if my car has ABS?

without going really fast and slamming the brakes...





I have an '89 Toyota Cressida, and this model comes optional with ABS (anti-lock brake system). I know that newer cars have the "ABS" lights that show up on the dash, but my car doesnt show it. So, how can I find out if my vehicle has ABS?





Thanks, appreciate it,


-Richard|||The easiest way is to just go in a parking lot and slam on the brakes. If your wheels lock and you slide you dont have ABS, if you feel a wierd shaky feeling in the brake pedal and your tires dont slide you have ABS. I know you said not to but it won't do any damage to your car, you should only have to go about 25mph, if your car cant handle that then it shouldnt be on the road.|||Turn your key to the on position but not to the start ignition





If you do not have an ABS light then you most likely do not have ABS brakes








Look in the owners manual to see if it specifically states which model you have and which has ABS





Physically lie down near the front or rear tires and look for a thin cable (about half as thick as a television cable) that runs along the strut or shock and inserts into the back of the wheel. Do not confuse this with a hydraulic brake hose (which is a little thicker than a television cable). An ABS cable will not conjoin a steel tube or line as a hydraulic brake hose will eventually.








Disassemble a tire or look behind a wheel to see if you see a cogged ABS ring with a computerized sensor touching it. This sensor would be attached to the aforementioned cable and the location of this ABS ring would be on the back of where the wheel meets the hub. If there's a cable running there, you probably don't have to crawl under to see if there's an ABS ring that it runs to. It'll be there.|||If the breaks are in good condition, go to a large parking lot or vacant street. You can test the system to see if you have ABS by speeding up and slamming on the breaks. If you have ABS, you will not be able to make the breaks lock up and skid. The break peddle will "vibrate" under the pressure of you foot, which is the system "pumping" the breaks very quickly. This is why the breaks won't lock up.





Keep in mind that your car is 20 years old and even if it does have ABS, they might not work correctly.|||If the ABS light doesn't turn on for a short time when you first start the car, it probably doesn't have it. Look under the hood for the ABS pump, and hardlines going to what may look like a block into it. This might be a telltale sign of whether you have it or not.


If not go to the dealer and bring your vin number in, and they can tell you based upon the vin number whether or not your car had it originally from the factory.|||you will have a twin outlet master cylinder if you have ABS on an 89 model car





There will be a cylinder shaped gizmo between the front and back brakes in the hydraulic line.





All ABS systems work by operating the front/back brake circuits independently, so there will be two independent hydraulic circuits.





Conventional braking systems only need one brake circuit|||go under your car and look at the axle shaft, if it has teeth around the outter area of the anxle then yes its ABS, if not then no. also if there is a wire to the axle area where your wheel is, this would be your ABS sensor to the sensor ring.|||It will prolly say it somewhere on the car on the inside like on the steering wheel or on the dashboard, just look around and if you don't see it then you prolly don't have it.|||well if the light dont come up, you probably dont have it. look for an ABS fuse maybe. or take off the wheels and look for ABS components. or just go wicked fast and jump on the brakes. lol|||abs insignia somewhere on car





abs light on dashboard/ instrument panel|||Sometimes it will say abs on the brake pedal

How do you replace the (ABS) sensors on the wheel hub of a 1997 Mercury Cougar?

for those who don't know (ABS) is Anti-lock Braking System|||The sensors are held into the hub with one bolt. Remove that bolt, wiggle the sensor out of it's hole, unplug it from other end of the wiring harness, and remove the mounting bracket in the middle of the cable. Installation is the reverse.|||You don't, you buy new wheel hubs and sensors and put them together.





I've never successfully removed a bad ABS sensor from a wheel hub. They always crush or break due to years of being hot and then cold and covered in road grime.

Which sportbikes or sport-touring bikes have ABS?

I'm looking for sport or sport-touring bikes under 1000cc in the United States with ABS (Anti-lock brake system). The only ones I know of are:


Honda VFR800 Interceptor


Ducati ST3


Suzuki Bandit 650





Are there any other choices?|||Most of the larger (1200cc) BMW bikes have standard ABS, and it's available on the touring Hondas, (Gold Wing and the ST1300.) The only current model year sport bike under 1000cc I could find that's available with ABS in the USA is the Honda Interceptor. If any others (including Ducati and Suzuki) offer ABS on their sport bikes, they're not advertising it on their web sites.|||Oh, yah. Try the BMW line ... the F series, the K series and the R series all have ABS. The Rs and Ks tend to run in the 11-1300cc range, but the F series are smaller.|||yamaha fjr1300, hottest bike on market|||Honda ST-1300 ABS

Is it unsafe to not have ABS in a car? I live in Washington State?

Was looking at a 2003 Eclipse RS but I found out online that they don't come with the anti lock brake system... sometimes we have bad winters and I don't know if it's safe to buy.|||It is not unsafe! It is just better technology.. For example: What Lexus is to Toyota.. Anti Lock Braking system. What it does is help so that the vehicle braking system doesnt lock during heavy braking, which is usually caused by heat. Also it helps prevent the car from swerving side to side during heavy braking. It is basically a luxury that one can live without. However IT IS VERY MUCH WORTH HAVING. But if you cant etc. Youll be ok.|||It might be safer but its not unsafe people have been drivin cars without abs for over 70years so its basically just like driving an old car and when abs fails it functions just like regular brakes the real problem is the tires and makin sure your tires are good and suitable for the conditions you are driving in abs will help you keep from locking the wheels on ice or rain and snow but if your tires are bald or improper it won't make it any safer you just have to be more careful and pay more attn when driving in bad weather|||if you know what your doing its perfectly fine, just have to remember to but your brakes if they lock up instead of letting the computer do it for you, i drove a car with summer tires and no abs through a canada winter and i had no problems|||A car with ABS breaking is is better to drive anywhere in the world having said that a car without ABS cannot be classed as unsafe either breaking system good break pads,shoes,drums,motors,and fluid level will keep you safe at breaking good luck|||its the same thing i have a 1969 mustang fastback and it does not come with abs and i still stop it even when i go to canada or washington if just make sure your brakes are good and you would be alright.|||ABS doesn't brake better; it merely keeps you from locking up the brakes and possibly sliding as a result. This is not something you should worry about.|||Cars were around for 100 years before they started equipping them with antilock brakes. Are cars without antilock brakes unsafe? No.|||After having 2 minor crashes because the ABS failed in 2 different makes of vehicle I won't get into anything that has it.

Why does my 94 Taurus' brake pedal push back at me...?

It's done this for a while.


I replaced the rear caliper with new pads and all..and the brakes are spongy..but I'm guess it's because theirs air in the line since the old caliper had a leak, which leaked quite a bit of fluid.


But..sometimes..prolly half the time that I use the brakes..I hear a humming sound..and they push back at me. The pedal gets higher and harder .. thats what she said.. and I come to an abrupt stop.


There is anti-lock brakes, but no error codes at all.


Is something wrong with the Anti-lock system?


Thanks.|||you may have ABS problems.|||No, something is wrong with your vacuum booster. It is the disc looking thing behind the master cylinder, and it sounds like it is intermittently failing internally by not relieving the assist. Try this one time - leave your key off and pump the brakes. Does it feel the same? The reason your pedal gets higher with the car off is because the vacuum booster is working properly, but has not vacuum applied. Another alternative is that you have insufficient vacuum at the booster. You can check vacuum at the large rubber hose connecting to the front of the booster with then engine on. It is unlikely that you have insufficient vacuum without an engine problem, though.|||amatera is right, it must be the master cylinder, no vaccum is created, your brakes should work even if the ABS fails..just that a sudden brake might lock the wheels.

My brakes are going down to the floor...help?

I have a 1992 Oldsmobile 98 and an anti-lock brake system. My brakes are going down to the floor and the pads are fine. I have brake fluid and my lines have been bled....I know there is no leak so could it be that my brake lines have air in them and if not what else could it be? All answers are appreciated....Thanks!!!|||replace the master cylinder...cheaper than rebuilding it...then bleed all brakes.....pump up the pedal 10 times...and start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder...work your way to the closest wheel..and you will be fine ...good luck|||it could be air,but i think its probably the master cylinder went to lunch.you dont get air unless you break a line or hose,or a leaking wheel cylinder,so iam leaning towards the master cylinder.|||master cyclinder brake pump the valve is broken/worn out .. theres a repair kit for that..|||Have the whole brake system re-bled first off. If the brakes are still sinking, have the brake slave cylinder checked. It could(although it's reaching here for a solution) also be the vacuum assist on the brake cylinders(by the way, it's either right behind or right next to the brake master cylinder assembly). If it's not that,. last but not least, don't adjust it just replace the brake cable. You will have to have it properly pre-streched and adjusted BEFORE driving though. When the brakes on a car have been completely and properly bled, you should barely be able to put pressure on the brake pedal BEFORE the car immediately starts to stop! Check all the brakes out for leaks and the lines too.|||Sounds like your master cylinder.

Does a 2000 Toyota Echo come with ABS?

My insurance company gives me a discount if my vehicle comes with a four-wheel anti-lock braking system. I own a 2000 Toyota Echo (it's a sedan). Does it come with a four-wheel ABS, a two-wheel ABS, or neither?|||http://www.newcar.com/15/01/2000/toyota/鈥?/a>





When in doubt, contact the local Toyota dealer.|||look at dash when you turn engine on

Vauxhall zafira abs and tc problem?

Abs(Anti-Lock Brake System) and TC(Traction control system) lights are lit while driving.





Vauxhall Zafira


2004 Car


1.8


Automatic





while driving these lights are lit and sometimes the control indicator for engine electronics lights up too.





i dont know what the problem is,it'd be very much appreciated, if any one can give me some suggestions/comments.|||Hopefully just a minor problem such as one of the speed sensors and one of the wheels if faulty, at worst the whole ABS system controller has failed. Make sure brake fluid is topped up and all pads and disc are in good condition as well.

Need Help With A Standard Deviation Question?

A Car manufacturer tests the first 1,000 cars coming off the assembly line to see if their new anti-lock braking system works correctly. Use the typical values for control limits. What % would be an expected outcome in a sample mean that is within +standard deviations of the distribution mean?





I cannot figure this one out. I would appreciate any help|||you have to assume something about the distribution here. I assume that it is assumed normal.


in this case it is a standard calculation, see the link below





look for the value 0.8413 on the tenth line of the table. this corresponds to probability of getting value below 1 std. so you have 1 - 0.8413 = 0.1587

I have a 1994 ford taurus car and I'm having a problem with the anti-lock brakes?

As stated above I have this car and I'm having trouble with the abs system my trouble is that the abs light goes off after the first start up but when I hit 19mph and it does the second test the abs light stays on I have had it checked and can find no problem with the abs I checked it at my mechanic and he can find no problem as well can anyone help me|||Sounds like a bad abs sensor, these are located at each wheel mounted on the hub assembly. Could be that dirt is blocking the view the sensor uses to count the teeth spinning around as you drive. I'd say clean off the tooth ring on your axle drives, then see if the trouble persists. You will require a wired brush to clean the teeth, not the sensor. Do not clean the sensor with the wired brush, for that you use a rag.|||Could be one of the sensors, should be one in each wheel hub, or the harnesses also the is a control module for the abs system

Brake trouble once again! Please help!!?

We have a 94 grand am. The whole brakes system has been replaced from brakes, rotors, calipers and hub bearings. The brakes lock and we have no clue as to why and we are supposed to have an anti-lock system. What could be causing this to happen.|||Have a mechanic check the brake sensors and abs computer.|||master cylinder|||If its locking the rear wheels when you stop the first time thats a normal problem on these cars. after a couple stops they shouldn't.If its each stop then your rear brakes should be checked.|||are the brakes locking up when you apply them or just driving down the road? if they are locking up when going down the road, you can try to replace the rubber brake line from the caliper to the metal brake line. it starts to get corroded on the inside and doesn't allow fluid to flow back into the master cylinder, causing the piston in the caliper to stay out keeping the pads pushed onto the rotor. If they are locking up when you apply them it could be 1 of 2 things. it could be a proportioning valve which controls the amount of force applied to the front and rear brakes, or you could have contamination in the brake fluid, check to see if it clear or has a milky color, if it has a milky color it as been contaminated.





hope this can help

What does this mean? Should I be worried?

My car panel light's been on for two days. It says, "anti-lock braking system". It hasn't been raining. When I step on the brake to slow down or stop, I could hear a kind of a scraping sound from the bottom front of the car. Is this something I should be worried about or is it something minor so that I can wait until I get my oil changed in one month, and then ask about it at that time? Am I at risk for losing my brakes? Is it merely the light sticking on the panel behind my steering wheel? Can I wait one month before getting it checked out? If it is something to be fixed, what would the approximate cost be?|||You are dealing with your BRAKES! this is nothing to stall around about.


The "Anti-lock" isn't that much of a safety issue. That indicator is telling you that the car's computer has identified a problem in the anti-lock circuit, and as a result has disabled the anti-lock feature. Your brakes however will function just fine. You just don't have the anti-lock.


The noise however IS important. You should have this inspected and corrected immediately. Not only your life and well-being is at risk, but good citizenship demands you look out after others as well.


Have it looked at, and if it is minor, and can be driven with little or no risk of failure, good.





Please be careful





Good Luck|||Sorry about the typo. The total tab will be $972.00! But, better safe than sorry! At least I have PEACE OF MIND now!

Report Abuse


|||you might want to stop driving until you get it checked out. carpool or catch a cab or bus|||sounds like you need some brakes. I would not wait, if it harms your antilock brake system, you could be in for big $'s. I'd rather waste an early oil change personally|||It is a sign that the ABS system has a fault, If you are hearing a noise with the light then yes I would get it checked out ASAP. Take it to a dealer or a very good auto shop. Possiable that a sensor is bad or brakes could be metal to metal and metal shavings get on the sensors and set the light.|||Don't know the cost, but it's better then the cost of life. I suggest you get it checked by a authrised car service compony.|||Better safe than sorry get checked|||"Scraping sound"


Don't wait to get this looked at if you plan to continue to drive the vehicle. It sounds like you have used up the brake pads and are now metal to metal. Get a brake technician to look at it before you have a mishap. Brake repairs are cheap. Medical bills are not.


Good Luck|||It sounds like worn out brake pads. Get it looked at right away.|||Scraping sound or more like a buzzing sound when you apply the brake? If it is a buzzing sound you are okay the ABS unit is just trying to kick in!! If it is more of a scraping noise then have it checked out!!! That is one most important thing that you don't screw around with on a car is the BRAKES!!! Good luck!!!

Who is responsible for making mandatory rules & regulations for Indian auto industry?

when will Anti lock Brake system for cars will be mandatory|||India has a well established and Regulatory Framework under the Ministry of Shipping, Road Transport and Highways in which SIAM plays a very important role.





All the stake holders are part of the regulation formulation setup. The ministry issues the notifications under the Central Motor Vehicle Rules and Motor Vehicles Act.





http://www.siamindia.com/scripts/technic鈥?/a>





When will Anti lock Brake system for cars will be mandatory...just like in the US when enough people are killed on the roads then they will make it mandatory (Sad but True)...

1985 Benz 300sd - wheel & brake question?

14" or 15" wheels for this application??


The vehicle has anti-lock brake sysytem and at low speeds the brake system makes a series of 'boing' noises and the brake pedal will go down pretty far when the brakes are applied. The vehicle does stop.


The brakes act like the rotors are warped and pulse at all speeds. Could this be related to the abs?|||if your brake petal goes all the down likely it means your brakes are so worn down they are almost gone but to have them replaced would cost a lot so i would recommend looking around for a newer vehicle no older then 5 years but call it a hunch|||with the pedal going all the way down it sounds like either a leak, bad master cylinder, or a blown wheel cylinder on the rear........


A blown wheel cylinder is the most likely cause......look at the inside of your rear tires to see if there is brake fluid on them.....it will look like a dark pattern flung out from the center of the tire.........if you see that then you most likely have a bad wheel cylinder.........


bottom line is that you could throw parts at it hoping to solve the problem or you could take it to a pro and get it diagnosed and fixed for less!!!!|||Could be air in the hydraulic system. try loosening all the nuts near the brakes a little bit and press the brake pedal until all the bubbles are released and only the hydraulic fuel (red) comes out. Tighten the screws again.


Air can be compressed that's why your pedal is so low.


Good luck.|||get new brakes it will save your life|||your abs is working when there is a judder throughthe peddle

Does the fiat Punto classic have ABS?

I did not see ABS in the specification of the car in the website. So, either they may have forgotten to put it in the web page or the car really doesn't have ABS. (ABS = anti-lock braking system)





I also have another question: What if the car doesn't have ABS, is it still safe or not?|||All ABS does is try to prevent the wheels locking by using computer controlled cadence braking. . .there were a LOT of cars before ABS was invented so not having it isn't THAT dangerous as long as you drive accordingly. Even cars with ABS can still lock the wheels when braking hard enough.





The 'classic' is the second style of Punto released in the UK...over here ABS was only standard on the 1.8 HGT version and possibly the 1.9 JTD version...the 1.2 and 1.4 engines didn't have it iirc.





Try my sources for more info :)|||According to link yes.


Better check out with dealer.


http://www.iloveindia.com/cars/fiat/fiat鈥?/a>|||which specific model of Punto Classic? Most do have ABS and even EBD, but it's possible some models don't

Driver Ed i need the answer today?

1) what is the proper way to use anti-lock brakes in an emergency situation ?


2)what is the legal definition of a bicycle?


3)what does anti-lock braking system prevent when used in an emergency stopping situation?


4)where should reflectors be mounted?|||Antilock brakes do not require pumping of the brake by the driver during emergency stopping. The system does it automatically, many times a second. Pressure should be applied continuously to the brake pedal during emergency stopping with ABX systems.


A bicycle is any vehicle which is powered by a human being and not an engine. Bikes can have two or three wheels. They can be upright or recumbent, but as long as the power comes from a human pushing pedals on a drive chain, it is a bicycle.


Antilock brakes prevent the wheels from locking up during a breaking manouvre. This ensures that the driver maintains control of the vehicle through the braking cycle. Locked wheels tend to skid and lose contact with the paved surface.


Reflector mount regulations may vary from state to state, so consult your state's DMV manual on this.|||1 They work automatically, just press the brakes hard.


2 A two or a three wheeled machine propelled by human force through gears.


3 It prevents your wheels from locking up and makes you brake faster then if they do lock up by pulsing the brake pressure.


4 I don't know if your referring to a bicycle or a car. On a bicycle you need a red one on the back and a white/clear one on the front and I'm not sure if you need them on the wheels.. I don't see why you would need to mount reflectors on a car but i imagine on the corners.|||1. Do NOT pump anti-lock breaks.








Sorry, that's all i know off the top of my head!

Can ABS be removed from your car?

Can you take your anti-lock brakes system out of your car or have it de-activated? they seem more complicated than regular brakes. When you are sliding you can't brake or swerve and if you do your screwed or something like that. I guess I just don't get why they are any safer? But could they be taken out?|||Wow, look at all the wrong answers.





Here's some advice from someone who has actually done it.





1. It is not hard to do.


2. It is not expensive or time consuming.


3. It does not put you at significantly more risk than having ABS.


4. It means you no longer have to worry about sensors going bad or the system malfunctioning, all brakes operate the same way.


5. It does mean you have a chance to lock your brakes, but if you don't drive like a retard, that's not going to happen anyway.





I have a 1991 3000GT, that I have disconnected the ABS on, and have been driving this way for months. I've even had a few moments where I've had to brake hard.





There have been NO negative side effects. And now, instead of having to pay tons of money anytime something on the ABS goes bad, all I have to do, is get a simple brake job, and that fixes pretty much everything.





Expect the car to handle slightly different, but the average person won't really notice it.





Other than that, best thing I've ever done for my car.|||turning when braking under heavy load is useless anyway.. they are safer because they don't lock up which causes you to slide..I don't think there is anyway to deactivate them with out losing your brakes all together..if your going to try and turn while your sliding let off the brake|||You don't want to try and deactivate or remove the ABS system. It prevents the brakes from locking up causing you to skid and potentially lose control. ABS brakes aren't really more complicated, they just have additional sensors that momentarily release the brake if a skid is sensed. This system has been used on aircraft for years. To Vipassan...you are the uninformed one. Just because you decided to "jerry rig" your brakes by removing the ABS don't talk down to those who know better. No smart mechanic would do what you have.|||You could remove them, but it would be expensive and difficult. Cutting the power to the solenoids would cause your brakes to revert to normal functioning. The claims you are making about sliding don't seem to make much sense.





ABS is much safer than standard braking. When the computer detects that a wheel has locked up (lost traction with the road), it pulsates pressure to that wheel, giving it a chance to contribute to braking the car. ABS can stop your car much more quickly and in a much more controlled manner than standard brakes in many conditions (wet pavement, gravel, ice, snow). It has saved my bacon many times. Read up on it before thinking about messing with your brakes.

How can I bleed the braking system on my 92 explorer without going to a dealership?

the rear anti lock system prevents the traditional method|||Physics works very well at this....





Fill the master cylinder and open the bleeders... gravity will pull the fluid thru the system forcing the air out in front of it.





If your Explorer has bleeders on the ABS unit open them first and leave the fluid run until it's clear of bubbles, close them and then open the bleeders at the wheel.|||anti loc brakes, have sencers on them, and really ought to be taken to a service center you trust, and let them do it.





They have all the special tools to do the job quickly.


If you try, go ahead, but if you snap off a bleeder valve, then your repair bill will get a whole lot bigger...a whole lot|||Bleed it like an old car, it works|||your brakes are an important tool I f you have to ask how to bleed them You should not be messing with them|||I agree with Duster!!!!!!!!|||Just loosen them and let gravity do its thing.

What all do you need to know before you buy a car?

I'm 18 year old,female...I was going through car specifications of a few cars...i was wondering what they mean.What do you mean by Sedan?What's mileage?Which cars are usually better:petrol or diesel?And why?What does ANTI-LOCK braking system mean?





Just very new to this....would appreciate it if you could answer these questions.thanks!|||Sedan%26gt;not a truck, not a sports car convertible top, not a bus. Basically a hard top car Either 2 door or 4 door.


If you are a pretty and loose female, you would know all about mileage. What is new, and what has gone through several football teams. Yeah, wear and tear the more "miles" put in.


Diesel is Okay. Depends on your town as not so many fuel pumps supply diesel in the more urban cities. Read the pumps.


There was a time when gas cars were pigs on fuel. If you did not want to spend your money on fuel the best gas pot at the time got around 28 miles to the gallon on a 4 cylinder motor. A diesel 4 would get 50+miles per gallon.


Now, automobile manufacturers are claiming 50MPG with their newer gas cars..


So, gas is the way to go because there are more price wars between gas stations than diesel.


ANTI-LOCK brakes just means the tires will not lock up so you skid. A rolling stop is faster stopping than a skid.

I have a 1992 Oldsmobile Bravada, the anti-lock warning light and parking brake light are on?

I recently had some repairs done to the vehicle to the fuel system, injectors and a tune up. The vehicle is well maintained and had a fuel problem when I took it to the mechanic, no other problems. I pick it up and now the brakes are sponge and the warning light is on, also, the parking brake light is on, he has no idea why, maybe the brakes need to be bled? I know he took half the engine apart to find the fuel problem and I am guessing something didn't get put back right or ? I cannot afford to keep spending money on diagnostics and unnecessary parts. There must be a way to trouble shoot and then get it repaired without costing a fortune, which I have already spent on the car. I would appreciate any help I can get.


Thanks|||if the parking brake light goes away you can live with that. ABS is a function on top of hydraulics brakes, some cars don't even have ABS.. CHEck the brake fluid reservoir make sure the fluid is up to where it should be|||Next time take it to the dealer, who will fix it right the first time!





DONT TRUST other than the dealer.|||Sounds Strange the way he did the Fuel System;





1; Find a Good Mechanic that knows how to find a Problem without taring half your car apart!





2; Bad/Weak Brake Line(s) will give that "Spongy Peddle" Feeling, or Low Fluid!





3; Leak at Callipers (Front Wheels) or Brake Cylinders (Rear Wheels)

How much should a 2001 buick century C1225 and C1226 sensor cost to fix? parts and labor...?

its for the Anti-lock brake system|||well they are not to bad to buy but i dont see that code in my book are you sure this is the rite code?

I just bought a 2001 Saturn SL1. My dad is sleeping, and I can't find it on google, does it have an ABS?

I'm only 16, and I remember learning in drivers ed that an Anti-lock Brake System is important. Does this model of car have it? My dad is sleeping, and I can't find it on google, so I figured somebody here might know, thanks! :)|||Grab the keys, turn the ignition on until all the warning lights light up. Look for a yellow ABS light. This was optional.

My 93 Mercury Grand Marquis has lost braking, its not the master cylinder think its in the ABS any ideas?

Brakes locked up this morning about 1/2 block after start up, felt like emergency brake was stuck on, then lost all brakes, they go to the floor like stepping on a plum, when car is off they can be pumped up but when ignition switch is turned they are to the floor again. No fluid missing or noticibly leaking from anywhere took off all wheels and inspected no visible probs, checked all fuses and relays I could find or think of, auto store said it sounds like a problem with the anti lock braking system? Not sure what to check or if I will be able to check or test any of this, do know that of the 4 parts they told me about for the system at the auto store the price was 650-1250 and that is not feasible or worth it. Can I disable the anti lock system? and drive without it? where shoule I look? Is any of this doable without taking it to a shop and having them put it on a machine? ANY help or advise would be appreciated GREATLY!!! Thank You in advance!|||Look for a scrapyard HCU (hydraulic control unit) to replace it with, if cost is an issue. What is the condition of the brake/fuel lines? They are known to rust out and leak through. Replacing it yourself, I would not recommend though.|||I have yet to see a HCU for ABS cause no pedal pressure. This would be a law suit waiting to happen. But back to point, disconnect the wiring going to the HCU or find/remove the fuse for the HCU, it will set codes, but it will be disabled. You didn't say whether or not that the pedal still holds pressure with the vehicle off. If the pedal regains "feel" then bleeds off, look to the master cylinder. Good Luck!|||check your power brake booster / also check to see if the master cylinder is possibly leaking into the booster. i have never had the abs system cause the brakes to fail in that fashion.|||Look into one of 2 things. Either a bad brake booster or a bad proportioning valve. These will not only give you the hard pedal but also no pedal at all. If the ABS went south have you gotten any codes from it or check engine light? My feeling is the power brake booster has gone bad. You can pump the brakes up but once you start the engine and apply vacuum you lose it. I would check a simple thing 1st like the brake vacuum hose going to the booster, They normally run directly from the intake manifold and then to the booster. the booster requires a lot of vacuum to operate. So if you lost vacuum , broke the hose or maybe the hose fell off, you will have the symptons you described.


good luck

Rear ABS light lit up on Ford Aerostar, will car have any dangerous problems?

I need to use the car tommorow and there isn't any time to fix it. Does having the Rear ABS light on pose any problems? I know it has to do with my rear anti-lock brake system but could it be any major problem?|||If your "rear ABS" light is on, it means you have a code stored in the RABS module. This does NOT render your base brakes inoperative. Even if the RABS valve has failed completely, your base brakes will operate as normal until you have the time to address the issue, untilizing the method I've described to you, in your other posting of a question regarding this concern. By the way, those unfamiliar with this system will NOT be able to retrieve codes with a scan tool on this particular model. The ONLY way to retrieve them is to ground out the black wire with orange stripe as I've described. Not to worry. Hope this helps.|||its hard to say for sure,it may just be an early warning of a problem getting ready to happen,but if the brakes feel ok ,its up to you if you drive it or not,most of the time they warn you way ahead of time,and you could just have a sensor going bad also,but use your on judgment on how it stops to determine if its safe to drive,good luck with it hope this helps.|||Brake fluid might be low. I'm not sure if that's it, but take it to Aamco; they're the ony people so far that I know of that give free vehicle diagnosic and get the job done right guaranteed at a price that's right.|||listen to what my husband says,he owns a repair shop, good luck,hopes this helps and don,t forget to change your air and fuel filters too.|||listen to the dodge man he is right on the mark with his awnser

Can you bypass ABS on an 1997 Ford Expedition?

I don't want ABS, because they just malfunctioned giving me no brakes and luckily I only hit a pole. I would like to bypass the anti-lock braking system and just have normal brakes. can anyone please help me?|||Just pull the fuse out. But you'll have to take the bulb out of the dash for the ABS light because it will be on all the time.|||The anti lock brake system malfunctioned and you hit a pole?


I seriously doubt that.


Consider, if that were true, why would you think the normal brakes would function if you disconnect the ABS system?|||as far as i know you can't and i think it would be illegal|||failure of the ABS won't cause you to lose your brakes. you have another problem.


it's illegal to modify safety devices in any way|||I agree with Leanne, highly unlikely, it sounds like you have other brake issues and need to find a mechanic to diagnose and repair the system properly. Disconnecting safety devices(especially brakes) is stupid and in many jurisdictions illegal.

1993 Ford Ranger 4 cyl. with 89,000 miles and rear anti-lock brakes?

I just bought a 1993 Ford Ranger. I decided to check out the rear brakes after discovering that the emergency brake pedal would go all the way down before it engaged the brake. I couldn't find an adjustment cable behind the pedal, so I figured the problem was in the rear brakes. I was horrified to see that it appeared that the back brakes never worked! Not only were the wheel cylinders dirty and full of rust, one of the drums had bad grooves in it. Anyways, I decided to install both wheel cylinders, shoes, master cylinder, and resurface the drum. When it came time to bleed them, I couldn't! Fluid was not pumping out to the back brakes. After some research, I began to suspect the Rear Anti-lock Brake valve (RABS). I took it out and examined it. It was a little dirty, but not too bad. I cleaned it and installed it again. This time around, I bled that RABS too. No fluid came out of the valve! How can I make sure if its the valve? Also, do I need to have the ignition ON when i bleed the system? Is it a good idea to simply bypass this valve all together and just run the lines from the master cylinder directly to my back wheels? Thanks!|||I would suspect that you have a bad master cyl.

I need help with this physics question please?

I don't know this at all, and I would appreciate any type of answer to help me. Thank you in advance.





Most new cars come equipped with ABS (anti-lock braking system) that keeps the tires from "locking up" when you press on the brakes. They accomplish this by causing the brakes to engage and disengage about 30 times a second (equivalent to someone "pumping" the brakes very quickly. Why do you think it is that a car will come to a stop over shorter distances when the tires do not skid?|||There are two reasons. The first is that the 'starting friction' is usually higher than the 'sliding friction'. Once something starts to slip, it takes less force to keep it moving than it took to start it sliding. So the sliding tire exerts less force on the road than one that is just about to start sliding.





The other reason (possibly not relevant to your teacher) is that when a tire slips, the generated heat causes the rubber to actually melt onto the road, which provides a liquid interface between the tire and the road, reducing friction even further. This is the principle of how an ice skate works; the pressure of the skate melts the ice slightly, which makes it slide very easily.|||More energy is dissipated through efficient brake systems than is through friction of skidding tires.|||It's because the force of friction between the tires and the road can be greater when there is no slipping of the tires along the surface. Static friction can exceed kinetic friction. So it is best to try to maximize the braking force by making it as large as possible before slipping begins.





I always thought that ABS sensed when slipping began (that is, when the tire quits rotating) and then backed off on the braking force until it starts rotating again.





I'm not so sure that's the way it works. My 2002 Prius has ABS and I'll swear I can stop that thing quicker by careful control of the brake pedal. I'm starting to wonder how good the ABS system I have really is...|||Static friction is greater than kinetic friction.... Static friction occurs when the wheels are turning and not slipping on the pavement. So if the tires lock up and are sliding across the pavement, kinetic friction is occuring and the car is not going to stop as quickly.

I was wondering if ABS can be added to a car after I have purchased it?

I purchased a new car and to my fault for not looking it doesn't have Anti Lock Braking System. Is that a feature I can add?|||Easy answer to your question..Yes,though it is not feasible.


Depending on the year/make/model of your vehicle it can be done the hard way or the harder way.


Newer vehicle's have other system's that work in conjunction with the ABS braking system,such as traction control.


An abs system can be added using a standalone system and adapting sensor's to your existing car,but it would take alot of time,creativity and ingenuity.It would also take some ECM programming and knowledge.The easiest way would be to find the most basic ABS on the most basic non-electronic fuel injected car and adapt it to work.This would not be a job for a DIY home mechanic,just the equipment to do the computer would cost upwards of a $1000.If I took on a job like this at my shop,I would give an estimate of not less than $2000k,as long as they understood it would be very time consuming and probrably be over budget when finished.


Hope this helps,and if you decide to do it,take it to someone that is very very smart and deals with ECM programming on a daily basis.|||Well in theory you can buy all the components for ABS and have it installed in the vehicle, but you will more than likely pay more than the car is worth having those items installed. There are so many components and they are all very expensive.|||i own a repair shop,and no you cant add this to it,it has to installed at the factory,because they use a different wiring harness on the cars that have abs on them,if you want it you have to buy the car with it on it already,good luck i hope this help,s.|||Depends entirely on the car. In theory, any car can have ABS added for the right price, but that price might include custom fabrication of all the gear, and would likely cost more than the car itself.





So:





1. If your particular make and model had ABS available as an option for the same model year, ask the dealer. Most likely the answer will be "no", but it never hurts to ask, and if you mention that cost is not a concern, they might do the research for you. Trouble is, ABS is a factory option rather than a dealer-installed one, so the labor and parts will be painfully, painfully expensive.





2. If your particular make and model did not have ABS available as an option, you're out of luck, unless you're a mechanial whiz with deep, deep pockets.|||If you are a average to good driver you can drive for decades without needing them, I have.|||ABS ain't all that. Matter of fact, it is a rarely used system and when it DOES kick in it scares the beejezus out of most people. If you get into a situation like hydroplaning, pump the brakes, thats all ABS does for you.|||You don't want no anti lock brakes.Forget it.


If you had them, I would bet you have no idea how they work, how to use rhem, or how do you know when they are working or not.


Not 1 person in a hundred, by my estimate, knows how to use anti lock brakes or can even tell me how they work .


They are a money maker for the shops. Most "mechanics" cannot trouble shoot or repair these systems.


From what I read on this forum most "mechanics" can't tell a bad battery from a bad alternator. So they change them both and YOU get the bill.|||Yes, you can but it's expensive to add ABS system into your


car. It's cheaper to sell the present car by trading in for another


with ABS system.

Another question about 1989 ford bronco eddie bauer edition?

well the rear anti lock light comes on more frequently than not (while driving) it does not interfere with the drive ability ...i have no idea what this indicates other than it has something to do with the anti lock brake system...help?|||It is most likely the wheel speed sensor that is located in the rear differential. I would recommend you change the rear diff fluid and change the sensor. That should take care of your issues.|||you could have few faults with rabs light it could be the rabs valve on your frame or it could be the control box under the dash or the Sensor what i would do when it comes on go to the dealer and have them pull the code so you don't replace parts that aren't faulty|||most like new rear brake pads - clips on calipers nasty to get off and on - pull wheel and check pads - find friend who knows|||My abs light would come on after going muddin just washed the mud off the brakes real good and had no problems.

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

How do ESC and ABS work together?

Electronic Stability Control and Anti-locking brake system|||xxx000AU is wrong, the Electronic Stability Control system and Anti-lock braking system both automatically control the brakes to hale you maintain control of your vehicle. The ABS electronically controls a valve body on the brake system and will pulse the brakes when lock-up is detected and help you keep the most grip on most surfaces. The ESC system uses the same valve body to regulate braking force to all four wheels independently in order to straighten out the vehicle if it senses excessive or uneven movement. Same hardware controlled by different controllers to achieve different effects.|||They are not related in doing their task.|||they use the same technology (to a certain extent)

Could anyone explain what these car terms mean?

1. dual VVT-i 4-cylinder





2. 5-speed electronically controlled automatic overdrive with intelligence (ECT-i)





3. 4-wheel Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) with Electronic Brake-force Distribution (EBD) and Brake Assist





4. Vehicle Stability Control (VSC) [2] and Traction Control (TRAC) with off switch





Thanks alot!|||1) the engine has variable valve timing on all cams, changing valve lift and duration of lift (increase in power, torque, efficiency, improves the power and torque curves)


2) 5 speed overdrive automatic


3) ABS, none of the brakes lock up(skid) if you stamp on the anchors (skidding causes accidents and is bloody scary if you lock up mid bend), EBD, the computer sends the braking where it needs to be, to improve braking stability, Brake assist enhances brake power in an emergency


4) The cars computers further manipulate braking to stop oversteer (car's tail sliding out) or any other way you can lose control of your car, Traction control prevents wheelspin, you can turn it off





For more more explanations check out this site...


http://www.autozine.org/technical_school鈥?/a>|||1. is the cars engin (dual VVT-i 4-cylinder)


2. is the gear Auto-tranmission


3. means the car has 4 wheel brake system.


4. its the stablility contol which helps car stay in balance at


highspeeds and tight cornering.|||type into search box





4-cylinder


automatic overdrive


Anti-lock Brake System


Vehicle Stability Control


Traction Control

Ford Taurus Brake work.?

I need to remove and replace the master cylinder on a 2002 Ford Taurus. It's got a slow leak. I'm a do-it-yourselfer. How do I do this without contaminating the brake system? It's got anti-lock brakes. I'm going to bleed the brake system right after. Does anyone know the proper procedure?|||I sure dont.. i'd say go buy yourself a repair book from your local auto parts store... it might help you best...





Abs system might need more attention than you think...please make sure of what and how you rdoing this work,.





Best wishes

What would be the selling price of my vintage car?

I am going to sell my vintage car. This is my feature of 2006 vintage dodge nitroused Cars includes: Cruise Control, Compact Disc Player, Power Windows, Power Door Locks, Driver Side Air Bag, Passenger Side, Air Bag, Tilt Steering Wheel, Power Steering, Anti-lock Braking System, AM/FM Stereo Radio, and Premium Sound System.|||its worth what any used car of that year is. What kind of car is it. Your being very stupid about this what are you twelve.|||If you think that a 2006 vehicle is vintage, you're nuts!


A car doesn't become an antique until it is at least 25 years old. 'Vintage' cars are usually a lot older than that.


About all you can do is to advertise it as a dodge with NO2 setup.


You don't even tell the model of the car. It could be a NEON, in which case you'll get a whole lot less then what you probably want.|||a 3 year old car can hardly be considered a VINTAGE car. It's barely out of warranty.|||3yrs old,mmmm it may be falling apart, but its hardly vintage, is it?





50 years old... thats vintage

If the light of ur anti lock sensor doesn't come up when car start..what might be wrong? car does have a it.?

The brake doesn't engage when sliding. 1997 Acura 2.2 cl. I did verify that the car has an anti-lock system. i bought it used last year.|||bulb blown. if there is a problem with system it would stay on. when it comes on at start up and goes off that means the computer is going threw it's systems check. it could be the computer for the anti-lock is not working properly but i would start with the bulb. even if the computer was not work properly the light should come on and stay

What would be the buying price of classic car?

I am going to buying a old classic car, that is car is 20 year old. And also this car has so many features like Cruise Control, Compact Disc Player, Power Windows, Power Door Locks, Driver Side Air Bag, Passenger Side, Air Bag, Tilt Steering Wheel, Power Steering, Anti-lock Braking System, etc. So how much I will pay for this classic car.|||Nothing to many thousands - since you do not say which car who would know|||Maybe a Cadillac Allente (forgot how it was even spelled) but I don't think that year even had the Northstar engine. So classic, 1989, are two things that don't go together. A BMW 633 wouldn't fly either. Your beating a dead horse here.|||there is nothing made in 1989 that would be highly collectible. what you got there is an old car, but highly unlikely it will ever be a "classic"





How does someone who claims to be an expert and write auto buying tips ask such moronic questions?|||The options on the car are unimportant. What IS important is the make, model and year of the vehicle.|||$1.72 plus tax and license you DONK.|||don`t waste our time you plonker.

My ABS toggles on/off by itself (and is usually off). How dangerous is this?

I have a 98 Saturn SL-2. The anti-lock brake system recently turned off and since then has mostly stayed off, but sometimes goes back on. Is there any danger beyond not having the benefits of ABS?|||Wait, how can you tell that it is off? I have a 96 lumina (also a gm) and the light goes on and off frequently in the winter but i haven't seen it since.





If you use the abs that frequently you should slow the hell down.





Driving without abs is dangerous in snowwy conditions, if you begin to slide just pump the break as fast as you can. if you live down south don't worry about it. your fine.|||the computer must be sensing a problem. otherwise there is no reason for it to go off. Does your MIL light come on?





I would have it checked out.|||not dangerous at all just wont have abs

What causes the ABS light on a 1993 Mecercedes 190 E 2.6 to stay on?

This is the anti-lock braking system and the light is showing a malfunction. I really do not use abs, I would just like to get the light off. Does it cost alot to get the abs fixed. Probably, since it is a merc.|||Usually this just means that the pads are well worn and probably need replacing.





Get your local brake shop check them for you. You can usually get an inspection for free. Their easy to replace and not as expensive as you expect.





On my 1992 1.8 Petrol I recently paid æ‹¢130 (includes labour and VAT) to replace the front pads. The rear ones wear slower so I left them alone.





Hope this helps., their great cars and well worth keeping on the road.





Ian M|||Ummmm...a problem with the ABS system. If you have ABS, then you use it, it is not an on/off feature.|||sounds like you need an abs sensor, you could probably find a used on at a junk yard try www.car-part.com

How is ABS related to static and kinetic friction?

Like, how are static and kinetic friction involved in the Anti-lock Braking System?


Thanks.|||When a vehicle moves the wheels roll freely and the friction between the wheel and the road surface is of the higher static type. When the brake is applied heavily the wheel tends to lock causing the friction to change to the lower kinetic type. The Anti-lock Braking System acts to momentarily release the applied brake at that instant just before wheel lock to keep the static friction. When that wheel rolls freely the brake is applied again and the process keeps on producing in effect the maximum braking.|||Just so you know, neither regime of friction has anything to do with electrostatics. Do not let the naming of "Coulomb friction" and "Coulomb's law" deceive you, they have nothing to do with each other.





Think of static friction as traction. It is the constraint force that prevents (until it is demanded more than mu_s*N) relative sliding motion.





Think of kinetic friction as skidding...it is what slows sliding down to a grinding halt, dissipates heat, and wears out materials. Kinetic friction occurs once relative sliding is already the case, and it just tries to bring the relative sliding to a halt.








When you are slowing down a car, you want no skidding of tires on asphalt, and you want static friction to be the force from the road on the car.





If your wheels lock up, your car will skid freely, and you cannot steer, but you just skid to a grinding halt in the direction you were traveling at time of wheel locking.





Locking of the wheels by the brakes occurs when the shoes clamp the drum so much that the wheels come to a grinding halt relative to the car before the entire car slows down. If you demand too much from the brakes, the wheels lock and you cannot stop or steer your car as well.





For this reason, antilock braking systems (ABS) are designed to ease the shoe-on-drum pressure such that they pump the brakes and avoid the wheel-locking. Manual abs involved drivers to be properly trained to apply pumping foot action, but modern automatic ABS does it for the driver.





Bottom line: keep the kinetic friction between brake shoe and brake drum, and keep static friction between the tire and road.|||when ceramic brake pads compress against the vehicles rotor, friction is applied to the rotor that is in motion (kinetic)





static arises from this as well (think of when you rub socks on carpet)

1999 pontiac trans am tcs and abs lights are on ,reset the computer ,still on?

While trying to find a new noise I jacked the car off the ground and let the rear wheels turn in reverse for a very short time and not fast. The traction control system light and the anti=lock brake system light came on. I found the noise,nothing to do with either system, but now the lights stay on even after unhooking the battery to reset the computer. What did I do ,how do I fix it.|||ABS wheel speed sensor issue. You may have knocked the wire loose during your jacking etc, A scanner that can read the abs codes will tell you for sure. Often the sensor itself is bad and requires replacement of the affected wheel hub/bearing/sensor assembly.

Follow up to previous question. Do you know where the fuse is that would shut down the anti lock brakes?

I'm having problems with the a/b and would like to just disconnect. I am unable to find the fuse. I know about the ones on the left side of dash, but I need the one that would disconnect the system. Would this be the best way to shut off and do you think it would be safe to do so? Thanks a lot|||I looked at your previous questions also. It sounds like the ABS "thinks" that your wheels "locked", so its cycling the anti-lock solenoid?- like it does on snow, you say?





Pickups often have just rear wheel ABS. The sensor for both rear wheels is located in the front of the rear axle. Check for damage, missing teeth, anything loose.





The system can probably give you trouble codes, using the same scan tool that checks for engine trouble codes.





Most worrisome is that you say it doesn't stop well. Normally the front brakes do about 75% of the work. If it's "rear ABS" and it doesn't stop when the rear ABS kicks in..... What are the front brakes doing? Got brake fluid? firm pedal? does it do hard stops OK?





Sometimes its worth the dealerships price - they're the most familiar. Its worth the higher hourly rate, they may be able to diagnose so much faster|||i do not think that there is a safe way to do this at all. if the computer sees a problem in that system, it will disable it. there is not a fuse for the abs alone. it is a computer controlled system.|||What car?Honda products have ABS fuses under the hood .


You can drive with a Disconnected ABS but brakes will have a tendency to lock up in an emergency/panic stop.

What happens if accidently I gave false information to my car insurance during the application process?

I was under the impression that my 2003 car had ABS (anti lock braking system) because my car dealer told me so, I bought it used. Accordingly during the online application for my car insurance I said that my car has an ABS System. Pretty soon after that I discovered that my car does not have such a system. I would like to inform my insurance because I do not want to have problems in case there is an accident. But will they cancel my insurance if I tell them the truth?|||Just let them know, it doesn't have ABS and they'll update the policy. If you didn't tell them and you file a claim they could (but I doubt they would) deny the claim. So it is important, but no, they won't cancel the policy.|||I agree that you can now call them and let them know you have "new" information about your vehicle. If you live in the US, the insurance company will know whether the car has the ABS by the VIN number but for your own peace of mind, call them.|||they will not cancel your policy. the rate may go up a tad bit, but not much. there would only be a problem if you knowingly made false statements on the application|||No. It's an honest mistake. If you received some sort of antilock brake discount, you'll lose that.|||Call the company and let them know.|||There is no reason for them to cancel your policy. They may raise the premium a shade, but that's it.





You need to contact them ASAP, because if you get in an accident, they could refuse to pay out.|||Mistakes happen. They will be much more likely to believe it is an honest mistake if you tell them about it BEFORE you have an accident.|||No, they will not cancel your insurance....however if they find out you discovered the truth but never told them...there could be a problem. So...call up the company and tell them you made a mistake.





You sign a paper when you purchased your insurance indicating that you told the truth to the best of your ability. You didn't know that the car didn't have ABS...you were told that it did. So you told the truth to the best of your knowledge. So they will not cancel you when you call them to tell them you made a mistake.





Most likely they will just remove the credit for having ABS.





Usually the when they run the vin number it comes up with that information though...so you may already not be getting the credit for it...but call them either way or check your policy to see if you are getting credit or not...|||Contact them and explain. No big deal. Do it soon, before you have a 'problem'. Like stated above, the insurance company could hose you and refuse to pay your claim.|||Once again the need for a LOCAL agent...I noticed that you said "during the online application for my car insurance".





If it would have happened in MY agency, our VIN checking software would have probably caught the mistake and charged you accordingly from the start.





Just go back on line to service your policy or try to call their 800 number if you can find one and call it to see if you can talk to a live person that will make the correction for you - if they know how to do that....





Good luck and I hope this helps!|||No, they will not cancel you policy, especially for being honest with them. They will make the necessary changes and adjust your premiums if you were receiving a discount for ABS|||I can tell you what will happen if you discovered you have made an error in your information, and don't correct it.





If you are caught committing or attempting to commit insurance fraud:





Your claim will be denied.


Your insurance policy may be cancelled outright.


You may pay higher premiums in the future.


You may be denied insurance in the future.


More importantly, the offence is punishable, on conviction, by a maximum of 10 years' imprisonment for cases involving an amount over $5,000 or otherwise a maximum of 2 years' imprisonment.

Do ABS and ESC systems have seperate electronic control units?

For the most part, does the electronic stability control system and anti-lock braking system have their own control units in the typical car, or are they shared?





Thanks!|||Yes.|||The ABS and ESC systems use all of the ABS speed sensors and ABS hydraulic control unit for control of the car. Most vehicles have all of this built into one unit, however, some cars do have seperate ABS and ESC control modules along with seperate yaw/pitch sensors.|||They share some sensors, and the ABS sensors installed on the wheels are shared with the other systems like stability control, as well as traction control and EBD and BA also.|||As far as I am aware they have the same controls. www.drivinglessonsintensive.co.uk

Anti-lock break system?

I had my brakes relplaced. Before that day I had no problems.Car is 2001 Ford Explorer. 1st time I drove the SUV after the new brakes were installed I could feel a jerking and tapping in the brake peddle and the steering wheel as I applied the brakes. I disreguarded it as because they were new, and maybe just tight and need "broke in". Weeks later it was still happening, I took it back to the garage who did the work. They rechecked everything, said there was no problem with the work or installtion they performed. He suggested it may be the ABS, but said he got 'no codes' indicating what the problem could be. Then suggested I take it to the ford dealership. The brakes have not failed to stop me, but I slide to a stop every time I to stop. No difference if I go fast , slow, stop quickly or slowly. Any ideas on what the problem? Noticing pulling to the right, I am wondering if it is out of line , would that create the problem I am having? ABS alert light is not on. more info? email me|||There is something wrong with the brakes. Either the shop didn't do the job right or used the wrong parts. If the vehicle was still sliding when you took it back to them after they did the job and it wasn't doing it beforehand then it's their fault. If the front wheel is skidding when you stop then it may not have anything to do with the ABS as your truck may only have rear wheel ABS. I would take it to another shop and have them check it out. Call around, some shops offer free brake inspections, and try to get an ASE certified tech to look at it. (The name of the tech who looked at it should be on the ticket look for their cert. on the wall if you were told an ASE tech looked at it most shops display the certs. for customers to see.) The pulling is probably from whatever is causing it to skid not causing the skid.|||The new brakes may be much more efficient than the older brakes. The higher efficiency may be forcing the ABS to come on because the car's momentum (on a huge SUV with tiny under-designed Ford disks) wants to make it keep going while the brakes are trying to stop the tires. If you apply the brakes very lightly and it feels fine, the jerking is because you're using the brakes too hard. Brake earlier and brake more gently -- see if that does it. I experienced the same on a car except I didn't have ABS -- the tires just lock up in that case... but this was after installing giant discs w/ amazing pads. Also, what did they change? If it's something as small as the pads, I doubt there could be something wrong with it. If you're still bothered, have them ride in the car with you so they can see for themselves. Also, check your discs (the shiny metal disc that you can see when looking at the wheel)... if there's any awkward grooves and they're not nice and smooth, there's an issue.

Why does Onstar Turn by Turn Require ABS system installed?

For a car with on-star to have the Turn By Turn GPS they also require you to have ABS (anti-lock braking) installed. This seems like a strange requirement. I know some hardwired GPS units tie into the cars computer so when satellite lock is lost it can keep giving directions based on car speed, but this should required ABS. Anyone know what information a braking system can give a GPS unit that speedometers or engine output can not?|||The ABS system just give onstar a clearer reading when turning because ABS braking is based on turning. ABS braking is used in situations like turning where the wheel automatically brakes to prevent rollover or skidding by using sensors. Onstar uses this to accurately know when the car is turning in a 90 degree angle or a smaller angle where ABS braking wont be used such as 20 degrees. It is pretty advanced technology and uses many sensors and speeds up results and accuracy.

What does BBCM stands for in Anti-lock brakes?

The service manual has instuctions on how to remove the EBCM in an ABS system. But they say there's this BBCM thing connected to the brake pressure modulator valve. What does it stand for? I can't find any answers! please help!|||Without doing more research, BBCM looks like a typo error. Electronic Brake Control Module?





If I find out more, I'll edit.|||Brake Bias Control Module

I bought a 2009 Toyota Corolla in December 2008 and I'm having issues with the ABS system?

His name is Onyx. The ABS (anti-lock braking system) light continually comes on at random times as I'm driving or is on when I start the car. If I turn the engine off, the light won't come back on until it feels like it. I now leave Onyx running every time I go to Toyota Service.





Toyota has run a diagnostics several times with the light on and off, but are unable to find a code in the RAM. They've changed the switch and the actuator. I dropped Onyx back off this morning because the ABS light came back on; 3 days after having the actuator changed. This is the fifth time I've taken in Onyx and I feel that they won't be able to find a solution. Onyx was purchased in MO, but repairs are being done in IL.





Even though Service can't find an actual code or problem, I have notice a significant difference with braking. Randomly, my brakes will either overbrake when I slightly push on it or underbrake when I step harder on the pedal. It takes another 1-2 pushes on the pedal to get the brakes to brake properly.





The ABS light first came on July 2009, but was first serviced December 2009 as the light only came on once every 2 mos. Once November came, light was coming on approx every 2 weeks or less. Now light comes on once per week or more. Light comes on without me pushing on brakes; just randomly. Today, there going to tear him apart to check the wiring.





Does Onyx qualify for the Lemon Law?|||Yes,it qualifies under the lemon law.There is obviously a serious defect in the brakes that Toyota has not been able to fix after several tries.Personally I wouldn't risk my life anymore and would begin proceedings to return the car for a refund.|||Toyota and you have a problem.





Sounds as if you have a serious braking defect and should not be driving the car until Toyota fix it. If the dealer cannot go it contact Toyota head office and tell them the facts.|||Google Lemon Laws Illinois and this will answer all of your questions.Each state has different consumer protection laws.





Onyx.Very cute name.|||You name your car?





In any event, your car qualifies for warranty work. It's outside the age for most Lemon Laws, and they are working on it. Lemon Laws apply when there are multiple, unresolved flaws. This is just a single, intermittent fault, and Toyota will eventually figure it out. I suspect a short somewhere (as do they, obviously)|||If its a 2009 it should be covered under warranty. I would not be paying for any of these repairs. I do not know how to fix your problem but post you question on a forum like http://www.toyotafans.net/ they should be able to help. This might seem like a stupid answer but have you checked you break fluids and had you breaks bled?

When i try to use the brakes my car will slide, or i have to pump the brakes to stop, why?

98 old cutlass, changed brakes, rotors. some1 said may nd to have my brakes bled, but my "mechanic" says he checked them and they don't. some1 else said my brake line may have air, but mechanic says not true. do I need a new mechanic? what else can cause this problem? anti-lock brake system?|||If it were just you having to pump the brakes,I would say it "might" be an anti lock brake sensor at one of the wheels. But since you said that it sometimes slides,.....I take it that you mean one wheel will lock up and skip.If this is the case, then the brakes need bled. Take the car to another "reputable" mechanic and have them bleed the brake system.If this solves the problem,be sure to NEVER go back to the first mechanic again, and be sure to tell all your friends that the first one sucks! GOOD LUCK! Rob in Pa.|||yeah i would say u need a new mechanic, sounds like the brake master cylinder is the culprit and take to auto zone and let them hook 'putor to it to see if any codes for anti-lock system. won't cost anything.|||master cylinder or needs bleeding, anti-lok won't do that, it either works, or it justs stops like normal brakes, get a new mechanic he sounds brain dead or lazy.

It is hard to change front brake pads(no rotors) on a 2004 impala ls with a ts system.?

I have worked on older vehicles in the past but i was wondering if there is anything i should know about the anti lock brakes before i change the front pads.|||There is no difference in the calipers with anti-lock - the only thing that changes at the wheel is the addition of a sensor and a toothed ring which is part of either the wheel bearing or the axle joint.|||nothing is basically the same as the other cars you've done.|||There is a recommendation from GM (and most auto manufacturers) is to open the bleeder valve while you push the piston back into the caliper so that the old fluid does not go up the brake line and contaminate the ABS actuator. There has been some problems in the past of the old fluid in the caliper having moisture and metal flakes from corrosion causing problems with the actuator if just pushing the old fluid up to the master cylinder. You could bleed out all the old fluid first before changing the pads and that way you would not push any trash up to the unit.

What was the first Chevrolet Camaro with ABS and air bags?

My son wants a first car, likes Mustangs, Pontiac Fiero, Mazda Miata, and 280Z cars. We needed to see what the oldest car in each model that HAS air bags at minimum, and prefer Anti-lock Brake System as well...





Thanks!|||1991 is the first year that require airbags in all cars in the US.|||The 1990 Miata had a drivers side air bag, but none on the passenger side and no ABS.

2001 Dodge Stratus SE - brake problems. (Answer only if you have actual knowledge or experience with repairs)?

My 2001 Dodge Stratus SE 2.4L (4-cylinder) has approx. 75,000 miles. The brake pedal "pulsates wildly" when i apply the brakes while traveling between 45-55 MPH, and is only slightly noticeable when braking at at lower speeds below 25 MPH. The pulsating brake pedal problem started about 2 months ago, and i have since replaced the front brake pads with new premium brake rotors, but the pulsating brake pedal problem still persist. My new tires are less than 1 year old with less than 10,000 milest, and has no abnormal wear. There are no alignment problems with the car. The mechanic who had changed the brake pads and rotors don't know what's wrong . A 2nd mechanic thinks the ABS could be malfunctioning. Before i take my life savings to the local dealership that charges $135 for diagnostic and $120/hour for servicing, has anyone experienced similar problems or know for certain the symptoms is a bad ABS (Anti-lock Brake System). Is there anyway i can disconnect the ABS myself?|||I've done most of my own maintenance for over 40 years. I am not a professional just a good shade tree mechanic. If this was my car I would do two things before I started spending a ton of money.





First, I would disable the ABS. You may need a book on the car for this but the brakes have a fail safe mode of standard non-abs function so you should be able to pull a fuse or disconnect a cable and still operated the car in safety. If the problem goes away you have your answer, the ABS is broken. If it doesn't go away, i.e. it keeps pulsing then we got to the second thing.





Second, I would have a good brake man check the rotors for any warping or run-out. If the rotors have high and low places on them it will cause all manner of squirrely operation. If this is the problem a resurfacing of the rotors will probably cure your problem.





Good luck, I have a very mild case of the same thing in a Buick but I know it is a rotor problem that will get fixed in the next few weeks. As soon as the bank account will allow it.|||Wow! That's odd. There isn't anything else in the system. I take email at my profile. I would sure like to hear what they finally find.


Good luck to you.

Report Abuse


|||Sounds like you have a warped rotor. You should be able to locate the fuse panel and remove the ABS fuse, which should disable the circuit. Then drive it and see if the pulsating pedal is still there, if it is you have a mechanical issue. If not, your ABS module is malfunctioning. I've seen similar symptoms on 2 Dodges I've owned - 98 Avenger and 00 Stratus. Mostly because the rotors are undersized (in my opinion) and don't dissipate the heat well enough, and my wife has a heavy foot on the brake pedal.|||OK, first of all, if this problem happened after you have changed the rotors then must replace them again. Now, if this problem from before what you need to do is, check you tires for bombs (car has to be in the air and spin the tires and look at the bottom of the tire for anything unusual). then check the rear drums or rotors they might be out of shape. 20 years in business 8 out of 10 rotors or drums 2 out of 10 tires (even if new). here is my shop # (516)285-9219 ray|||sounds much like the ABS system malfunctioning. May be a cheap fix, or the whole system could need replaced