Wednesday, November 30, 2011

How do ESC and ABS work together?

Electronic Stability Control and Anti-locking brake system|||xxx000AU is wrong, the Electronic Stability Control system and Anti-lock braking system both automatically control the brakes to hale you maintain control of your vehicle. The ABS electronically controls a valve body on the brake system and will pulse the brakes when lock-up is detected and help you keep the most grip on most surfaces. The ESC system uses the same valve body to regulate braking force to all four wheels independently in order to straighten out the vehicle if it senses excessive or uneven movement. Same hardware controlled by different controllers to achieve different effects.|||They are not related in doing their task.|||they use the same technology (to a certain extent)

Could anyone explain what these car terms mean?

1. dual VVT-i 4-cylinder





2. 5-speed electronically controlled automatic overdrive with intelligence (ECT-i)





3. 4-wheel Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) with Electronic Brake-force Distribution (EBD) and Brake Assist





4. Vehicle Stability Control (VSC) [2] and Traction Control (TRAC) with off switch





Thanks alot!|||1) the engine has variable valve timing on all cams, changing valve lift and duration of lift (increase in power, torque, efficiency, improves the power and torque curves)


2) 5 speed overdrive automatic


3) ABS, none of the brakes lock up(skid) if you stamp on the anchors (skidding causes accidents and is bloody scary if you lock up mid bend), EBD, the computer sends the braking where it needs to be, to improve braking stability, Brake assist enhances brake power in an emergency


4) The cars computers further manipulate braking to stop oversteer (car's tail sliding out) or any other way you can lose control of your car, Traction control prevents wheelspin, you can turn it off





For more more explanations check out this site...


http://www.autozine.org/technical_school鈥?/a>|||1. is the cars engin (dual VVT-i 4-cylinder)


2. is the gear Auto-tranmission


3. means the car has 4 wheel brake system.


4. its the stablility contol which helps car stay in balance at


highspeeds and tight cornering.|||type into search box





4-cylinder


automatic overdrive


Anti-lock Brake System


Vehicle Stability Control


Traction Control

Ford Taurus Brake work.?

I need to remove and replace the master cylinder on a 2002 Ford Taurus. It's got a slow leak. I'm a do-it-yourselfer. How do I do this without contaminating the brake system? It's got anti-lock brakes. I'm going to bleed the brake system right after. Does anyone know the proper procedure?|||I sure dont.. i'd say go buy yourself a repair book from your local auto parts store... it might help you best...





Abs system might need more attention than you think...please make sure of what and how you rdoing this work,.





Best wishes

What would be the selling price of my vintage car?

I am going to sell my vintage car. This is my feature of 2006 vintage dodge nitroused Cars includes: Cruise Control, Compact Disc Player, Power Windows, Power Door Locks, Driver Side Air Bag, Passenger Side, Air Bag, Tilt Steering Wheel, Power Steering, Anti-lock Braking System, AM/FM Stereo Radio, and Premium Sound System.|||its worth what any used car of that year is. What kind of car is it. Your being very stupid about this what are you twelve.|||If you think that a 2006 vehicle is vintage, you're nuts!


A car doesn't become an antique until it is at least 25 years old. 'Vintage' cars are usually a lot older than that.


About all you can do is to advertise it as a dodge with NO2 setup.


You don't even tell the model of the car. It could be a NEON, in which case you'll get a whole lot less then what you probably want.|||a 3 year old car can hardly be considered a VINTAGE car. It's barely out of warranty.|||3yrs old,mmmm it may be falling apart, but its hardly vintage, is it?





50 years old... thats vintage

If the light of ur anti lock sensor doesn't come up when car start..what might be wrong? car does have a it.?

The brake doesn't engage when sliding. 1997 Acura 2.2 cl. I did verify that the car has an anti-lock system. i bought it used last year.|||bulb blown. if there is a problem with system it would stay on. when it comes on at start up and goes off that means the computer is going threw it's systems check. it could be the computer for the anti-lock is not working properly but i would start with the bulb. even if the computer was not work properly the light should come on and stay

What would be the buying price of classic car?

I am going to buying a old classic car, that is car is 20 year old. And also this car has so many features like Cruise Control, Compact Disc Player, Power Windows, Power Door Locks, Driver Side Air Bag, Passenger Side, Air Bag, Tilt Steering Wheel, Power Steering, Anti-lock Braking System, etc. So how much I will pay for this classic car.|||Nothing to many thousands - since you do not say which car who would know|||Maybe a Cadillac Allente (forgot how it was even spelled) but I don't think that year even had the Northstar engine. So classic, 1989, are two things that don't go together. A BMW 633 wouldn't fly either. Your beating a dead horse here.|||there is nothing made in 1989 that would be highly collectible. what you got there is an old car, but highly unlikely it will ever be a "classic"





How does someone who claims to be an expert and write auto buying tips ask such moronic questions?|||The options on the car are unimportant. What IS important is the make, model and year of the vehicle.|||$1.72 plus tax and license you DONK.|||don`t waste our time you plonker.

My ABS toggles on/off by itself (and is usually off). How dangerous is this?

I have a 98 Saturn SL-2. The anti-lock brake system recently turned off and since then has mostly stayed off, but sometimes goes back on. Is there any danger beyond not having the benefits of ABS?|||Wait, how can you tell that it is off? I have a 96 lumina (also a gm) and the light goes on and off frequently in the winter but i haven't seen it since.





If you use the abs that frequently you should slow the hell down.





Driving without abs is dangerous in snowwy conditions, if you begin to slide just pump the break as fast as you can. if you live down south don't worry about it. your fine.|||the computer must be sensing a problem. otherwise there is no reason for it to go off. Does your MIL light come on?





I would have it checked out.|||not dangerous at all just wont have abs

What causes the ABS light on a 1993 Mecercedes 190 E 2.6 to stay on?

This is the anti-lock braking system and the light is showing a malfunction. I really do not use abs, I would just like to get the light off. Does it cost alot to get the abs fixed. Probably, since it is a merc.|||Usually this just means that the pads are well worn and probably need replacing.





Get your local brake shop check them for you. You can usually get an inspection for free. Their easy to replace and not as expensive as you expect.





On my 1992 1.8 Petrol I recently paid 拢130 (includes labour and VAT) to replace the front pads. The rear ones wear slower so I left them alone.





Hope this helps., their great cars and well worth keeping on the road.





Ian M|||Ummmm...a problem with the ABS system. If you have ABS, then you use it, it is not an on/off feature.|||sounds like you need an abs sensor, you could probably find a used on at a junk yard try www.car-part.com

How is ABS related to static and kinetic friction?

Like, how are static and kinetic friction involved in the Anti-lock Braking System?


Thanks.|||When a vehicle moves the wheels roll freely and the friction between the wheel and the road surface is of the higher static type. When the brake is applied heavily the wheel tends to lock causing the friction to change to the lower kinetic type. The Anti-lock Braking System acts to momentarily release the applied brake at that instant just before wheel lock to keep the static friction. When that wheel rolls freely the brake is applied again and the process keeps on producing in effect the maximum braking.|||Just so you know, neither regime of friction has anything to do with electrostatics. Do not let the naming of "Coulomb friction" and "Coulomb's law" deceive you, they have nothing to do with each other.





Think of static friction as traction. It is the constraint force that prevents (until it is demanded more than mu_s*N) relative sliding motion.





Think of kinetic friction as skidding...it is what slows sliding down to a grinding halt, dissipates heat, and wears out materials. Kinetic friction occurs once relative sliding is already the case, and it just tries to bring the relative sliding to a halt.








When you are slowing down a car, you want no skidding of tires on asphalt, and you want static friction to be the force from the road on the car.





If your wheels lock up, your car will skid freely, and you cannot steer, but you just skid to a grinding halt in the direction you were traveling at time of wheel locking.





Locking of the wheels by the brakes occurs when the shoes clamp the drum so much that the wheels come to a grinding halt relative to the car before the entire car slows down. If you demand too much from the brakes, the wheels lock and you cannot stop or steer your car as well.





For this reason, antilock braking systems (ABS) are designed to ease the shoe-on-drum pressure such that they pump the brakes and avoid the wheel-locking. Manual abs involved drivers to be properly trained to apply pumping foot action, but modern automatic ABS does it for the driver.





Bottom line: keep the kinetic friction between brake shoe and brake drum, and keep static friction between the tire and road.|||when ceramic brake pads compress against the vehicles rotor, friction is applied to the rotor that is in motion (kinetic)





static arises from this as well (think of when you rub socks on carpet)

1999 pontiac trans am tcs and abs lights are on ,reset the computer ,still on?

While trying to find a new noise I jacked the car off the ground and let the rear wheels turn in reverse for a very short time and not fast. The traction control system light and the anti=lock brake system light came on. I found the noise,nothing to do with either system, but now the lights stay on even after unhooking the battery to reset the computer. What did I do ,how do I fix it.|||ABS wheel speed sensor issue. You may have knocked the wire loose during your jacking etc, A scanner that can read the abs codes will tell you for sure. Often the sensor itself is bad and requires replacement of the affected wheel hub/bearing/sensor assembly.

Follow up to previous question. Do you know where the fuse is that would shut down the anti lock brakes?

I'm having problems with the a/b and would like to just disconnect. I am unable to find the fuse. I know about the ones on the left side of dash, but I need the one that would disconnect the system. Would this be the best way to shut off and do you think it would be safe to do so? Thanks a lot|||I looked at your previous questions also. It sounds like the ABS "thinks" that your wheels "locked", so its cycling the anti-lock solenoid?- like it does on snow, you say?





Pickups often have just rear wheel ABS. The sensor for both rear wheels is located in the front of the rear axle. Check for damage, missing teeth, anything loose.





The system can probably give you trouble codes, using the same scan tool that checks for engine trouble codes.





Most worrisome is that you say it doesn't stop well. Normally the front brakes do about 75% of the work. If it's "rear ABS" and it doesn't stop when the rear ABS kicks in..... What are the front brakes doing? Got brake fluid? firm pedal? does it do hard stops OK?





Sometimes its worth the dealerships price - they're the most familiar. Its worth the higher hourly rate, they may be able to diagnose so much faster|||i do not think that there is a safe way to do this at all. if the computer sees a problem in that system, it will disable it. there is not a fuse for the abs alone. it is a computer controlled system.|||What car?Honda products have ABS fuses under the hood .


You can drive with a Disconnected ABS but brakes will have a tendency to lock up in an emergency/panic stop.

What happens if accidently I gave false information to my car insurance during the application process?

I was under the impression that my 2003 car had ABS (anti lock braking system) because my car dealer told me so, I bought it used. Accordingly during the online application for my car insurance I said that my car has an ABS System. Pretty soon after that I discovered that my car does not have such a system. I would like to inform my insurance because I do not want to have problems in case there is an accident. But will they cancel my insurance if I tell them the truth?|||Just let them know, it doesn't have ABS and they'll update the policy. If you didn't tell them and you file a claim they could (but I doubt they would) deny the claim. So it is important, but no, they won't cancel the policy.|||I agree that you can now call them and let them know you have "new" information about your vehicle. If you live in the US, the insurance company will know whether the car has the ABS by the VIN number but for your own peace of mind, call them.|||they will not cancel your policy. the rate may go up a tad bit, but not much. there would only be a problem if you knowingly made false statements on the application|||No. It's an honest mistake. If you received some sort of antilock brake discount, you'll lose that.|||Call the company and let them know.|||There is no reason for them to cancel your policy. They may raise the premium a shade, but that's it.





You need to contact them ASAP, because if you get in an accident, they could refuse to pay out.|||Mistakes happen. They will be much more likely to believe it is an honest mistake if you tell them about it BEFORE you have an accident.|||No, they will not cancel your insurance....however if they find out you discovered the truth but never told them...there could be a problem. So...call up the company and tell them you made a mistake.





You sign a paper when you purchased your insurance indicating that you told the truth to the best of your ability. You didn't know that the car didn't have ABS...you were told that it did. So you told the truth to the best of your knowledge. So they will not cancel you when you call them to tell them you made a mistake.





Most likely they will just remove the credit for having ABS.





Usually the when they run the vin number it comes up with that information though...so you may already not be getting the credit for it...but call them either way or check your policy to see if you are getting credit or not...|||Contact them and explain. No big deal. Do it soon, before you have a 'problem'. Like stated above, the insurance company could hose you and refuse to pay your claim.|||Once again the need for a LOCAL agent...I noticed that you said "during the online application for my car insurance".





If it would have happened in MY agency, our VIN checking software would have probably caught the mistake and charged you accordingly from the start.





Just go back on line to service your policy or try to call their 800 number if you can find one and call it to see if you can talk to a live person that will make the correction for you - if they know how to do that....





Good luck and I hope this helps!|||No, they will not cancel you policy, especially for being honest with them. They will make the necessary changes and adjust your premiums if you were receiving a discount for ABS|||I can tell you what will happen if you discovered you have made an error in your information, and don't correct it.





If you are caught committing or attempting to commit insurance fraud:





Your claim will be denied.


Your insurance policy may be cancelled outright.


You may pay higher premiums in the future.


You may be denied insurance in the future.


More importantly, the offence is punishable, on conviction, by a maximum of 10 years' imprisonment for cases involving an amount over $5,000 or otherwise a maximum of 2 years' imprisonment.

Do ABS and ESC systems have seperate electronic control units?

For the most part, does the electronic stability control system and anti-lock braking system have their own control units in the typical car, or are they shared?





Thanks!|||Yes.|||The ABS and ESC systems use all of the ABS speed sensors and ABS hydraulic control unit for control of the car. Most vehicles have all of this built into one unit, however, some cars do have seperate ABS and ESC control modules along with seperate yaw/pitch sensors.|||They share some sensors, and the ABS sensors installed on the wheels are shared with the other systems like stability control, as well as traction control and EBD and BA also.|||As far as I am aware they have the same controls. www.drivinglessonsintensive.co.uk

Anti-lock break system?

I had my brakes relplaced. Before that day I had no problems.Car is 2001 Ford Explorer. 1st time I drove the SUV after the new brakes were installed I could feel a jerking and tapping in the brake peddle and the steering wheel as I applied the brakes. I disreguarded it as because they were new, and maybe just tight and need "broke in". Weeks later it was still happening, I took it back to the garage who did the work. They rechecked everything, said there was no problem with the work or installtion they performed. He suggested it may be the ABS, but said he got 'no codes' indicating what the problem could be. Then suggested I take it to the ford dealership. The brakes have not failed to stop me, but I slide to a stop every time I to stop. No difference if I go fast , slow, stop quickly or slowly. Any ideas on what the problem? Noticing pulling to the right, I am wondering if it is out of line , would that create the problem I am having? ABS alert light is not on. more info? email me|||There is something wrong with the brakes. Either the shop didn't do the job right or used the wrong parts. If the vehicle was still sliding when you took it back to them after they did the job and it wasn't doing it beforehand then it's their fault. If the front wheel is skidding when you stop then it may not have anything to do with the ABS as your truck may only have rear wheel ABS. I would take it to another shop and have them check it out. Call around, some shops offer free brake inspections, and try to get an ASE certified tech to look at it. (The name of the tech who looked at it should be on the ticket look for their cert. on the wall if you were told an ASE tech looked at it most shops display the certs. for customers to see.) The pulling is probably from whatever is causing it to skid not causing the skid.|||The new brakes may be much more efficient than the older brakes. The higher efficiency may be forcing the ABS to come on because the car's momentum (on a huge SUV with tiny under-designed Ford disks) wants to make it keep going while the brakes are trying to stop the tires. If you apply the brakes very lightly and it feels fine, the jerking is because you're using the brakes too hard. Brake earlier and brake more gently -- see if that does it. I experienced the same on a car except I didn't have ABS -- the tires just lock up in that case... but this was after installing giant discs w/ amazing pads. Also, what did they change? If it's something as small as the pads, I doubt there could be something wrong with it. If you're still bothered, have them ride in the car with you so they can see for themselves. Also, check your discs (the shiny metal disc that you can see when looking at the wheel)... if there's any awkward grooves and they're not nice and smooth, there's an issue.

Why does Onstar Turn by Turn Require ABS system installed?

For a car with on-star to have the Turn By Turn GPS they also require you to have ABS (anti-lock braking) installed. This seems like a strange requirement. I know some hardwired GPS units tie into the cars computer so when satellite lock is lost it can keep giving directions based on car speed, but this should required ABS. Anyone know what information a braking system can give a GPS unit that speedometers or engine output can not?|||The ABS system just give onstar a clearer reading when turning because ABS braking is based on turning. ABS braking is used in situations like turning where the wheel automatically brakes to prevent rollover or skidding by using sensors. Onstar uses this to accurately know when the car is turning in a 90 degree angle or a smaller angle where ABS braking wont be used such as 20 degrees. It is pretty advanced technology and uses many sensors and speeds up results and accuracy.

What does BBCM stands for in Anti-lock brakes?

The service manual has instuctions on how to remove the EBCM in an ABS system. But they say there's this BBCM thing connected to the brake pressure modulator valve. What does it stand for? I can't find any answers! please help!|||Without doing more research, BBCM looks like a typo error. Electronic Brake Control Module?





If I find out more, I'll edit.|||Brake Bias Control Module

I bought a 2009 Toyota Corolla in December 2008 and I'm having issues with the ABS system?

His name is Onyx. The ABS (anti-lock braking system) light continually comes on at random times as I'm driving or is on when I start the car. If I turn the engine off, the light won't come back on until it feels like it. I now leave Onyx running every time I go to Toyota Service.





Toyota has run a diagnostics several times with the light on and off, but are unable to find a code in the RAM. They've changed the switch and the actuator. I dropped Onyx back off this morning because the ABS light came back on; 3 days after having the actuator changed. This is the fifth time I've taken in Onyx and I feel that they won't be able to find a solution. Onyx was purchased in MO, but repairs are being done in IL.





Even though Service can't find an actual code or problem, I have notice a significant difference with braking. Randomly, my brakes will either overbrake when I slightly push on it or underbrake when I step harder on the pedal. It takes another 1-2 pushes on the pedal to get the brakes to brake properly.





The ABS light first came on July 2009, but was first serviced December 2009 as the light only came on once every 2 mos. Once November came, light was coming on approx every 2 weeks or less. Now light comes on once per week or more. Light comes on without me pushing on brakes; just randomly. Today, there going to tear him apart to check the wiring.





Does Onyx qualify for the Lemon Law?|||Yes,it qualifies under the lemon law.There is obviously a serious defect in the brakes that Toyota has not been able to fix after several tries.Personally I wouldn't risk my life anymore and would begin proceedings to return the car for a refund.|||Toyota and you have a problem.





Sounds as if you have a serious braking defect and should not be driving the car until Toyota fix it. If the dealer cannot go it contact Toyota head office and tell them the facts.|||Google Lemon Laws Illinois and this will answer all of your questions.Each state has different consumer protection laws.





Onyx.Very cute name.|||You name your car?





In any event, your car qualifies for warranty work. It's outside the age for most Lemon Laws, and they are working on it. Lemon Laws apply when there are multiple, unresolved flaws. This is just a single, intermittent fault, and Toyota will eventually figure it out. I suspect a short somewhere (as do they, obviously)|||If its a 2009 it should be covered under warranty. I would not be paying for any of these repairs. I do not know how to fix your problem but post you question on a forum like http://www.toyotafans.net/ they should be able to help. This might seem like a stupid answer but have you checked you break fluids and had you breaks bled?

When i try to use the brakes my car will slide, or i have to pump the brakes to stop, why?

98 old cutlass, changed brakes, rotors. some1 said may nd to have my brakes bled, but my "mechanic" says he checked them and they don't. some1 else said my brake line may have air, but mechanic says not true. do I need a new mechanic? what else can cause this problem? anti-lock brake system?|||If it were just you having to pump the brakes,I would say it "might" be an anti lock brake sensor at one of the wheels. But since you said that it sometimes slides,.....I take it that you mean one wheel will lock up and skip.If this is the case, then the brakes need bled. Take the car to another "reputable" mechanic and have them bleed the brake system.If this solves the problem,be sure to NEVER go back to the first mechanic again, and be sure to tell all your friends that the first one sucks! GOOD LUCK! Rob in Pa.|||yeah i would say u need a new mechanic, sounds like the brake master cylinder is the culprit and take to auto zone and let them hook 'putor to it to see if any codes for anti-lock system. won't cost anything.|||master cylinder or needs bleeding, anti-lok won't do that, it either works, or it justs stops like normal brakes, get a new mechanic he sounds brain dead or lazy.

It is hard to change front brake pads(no rotors) on a 2004 impala ls with a ts system.?

I have worked on older vehicles in the past but i was wondering if there is anything i should know about the anti lock brakes before i change the front pads.|||There is no difference in the calipers with anti-lock - the only thing that changes at the wheel is the addition of a sensor and a toothed ring which is part of either the wheel bearing or the axle joint.|||nothing is basically the same as the other cars you've done.|||There is a recommendation from GM (and most auto manufacturers) is to open the bleeder valve while you push the piston back into the caliper so that the old fluid does not go up the brake line and contaminate the ABS actuator. There has been some problems in the past of the old fluid in the caliper having moisture and metal flakes from corrosion causing problems with the actuator if just pushing the old fluid up to the master cylinder. You could bleed out all the old fluid first before changing the pads and that way you would not push any trash up to the unit.

What was the first Chevrolet Camaro with ABS and air bags?

My son wants a first car, likes Mustangs, Pontiac Fiero, Mazda Miata, and 280Z cars. We needed to see what the oldest car in each model that HAS air bags at minimum, and prefer Anti-lock Brake System as well...





Thanks!|||1991 is the first year that require airbags in all cars in the US.|||The 1990 Miata had a drivers side air bag, but none on the passenger side and no ABS.

2001 Dodge Stratus SE - brake problems. (Answer only if you have actual knowledge or experience with repairs)?

My 2001 Dodge Stratus SE 2.4L (4-cylinder) has approx. 75,000 miles. The brake pedal "pulsates wildly" when i apply the brakes while traveling between 45-55 MPH, and is only slightly noticeable when braking at at lower speeds below 25 MPH. The pulsating brake pedal problem started about 2 months ago, and i have since replaced the front brake pads with new premium brake rotors, but the pulsating brake pedal problem still persist. My new tires are less than 1 year old with less than 10,000 milest, and has no abnormal wear. There are no alignment problems with the car. The mechanic who had changed the brake pads and rotors don't know what's wrong . A 2nd mechanic thinks the ABS could be malfunctioning. Before i take my life savings to the local dealership that charges $135 for diagnostic and $120/hour for servicing, has anyone experienced similar problems or know for certain the symptoms is a bad ABS (Anti-lock Brake System). Is there anyway i can disconnect the ABS myself?|||I've done most of my own maintenance for over 40 years. I am not a professional just a good shade tree mechanic. If this was my car I would do two things before I started spending a ton of money.





First, I would disable the ABS. You may need a book on the car for this but the brakes have a fail safe mode of standard non-abs function so you should be able to pull a fuse or disconnect a cable and still operated the car in safety. If the problem goes away you have your answer, the ABS is broken. If it doesn't go away, i.e. it keeps pulsing then we got to the second thing.





Second, I would have a good brake man check the rotors for any warping or run-out. If the rotors have high and low places on them it will cause all manner of squirrely operation. If this is the problem a resurfacing of the rotors will probably cure your problem.





Good luck, I have a very mild case of the same thing in a Buick but I know it is a rotor problem that will get fixed in the next few weeks. As soon as the bank account will allow it.|||Wow! That's odd. There isn't anything else in the system. I take email at my profile. I would sure like to hear what they finally find.


Good luck to you.

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|||Sounds like you have a warped rotor. You should be able to locate the fuse panel and remove the ABS fuse, which should disable the circuit. Then drive it and see if the pulsating pedal is still there, if it is you have a mechanical issue. If not, your ABS module is malfunctioning. I've seen similar symptoms on 2 Dodges I've owned - 98 Avenger and 00 Stratus. Mostly because the rotors are undersized (in my opinion) and don't dissipate the heat well enough, and my wife has a heavy foot on the brake pedal.|||OK, first of all, if this problem happened after you have changed the rotors then must replace them again. Now, if this problem from before what you need to do is, check you tires for bombs (car has to be in the air and spin the tires and look at the bottom of the tire for anything unusual). then check the rear drums or rotors they might be out of shape. 20 years in business 8 out of 10 rotors or drums 2 out of 10 tires (even if new). here is my shop # (516)285-9219 ray|||sounds much like the ABS system malfunctioning. May be a cheap fix, or the whole system could need replaced

What are the steps I need to take when the ABS light stays on on my 2005 Ford Taurus?

I own a 2005 Ford Taurus and for the past few weeks, the ABS light has been on in the car. I know it pertains to the Anti-Lock Brake System, however I need some more insight. Thanks.|||I believe you have a bad ABS Sensor , probably on one on one of the front discs. Common problem on those Taurus models. Normally about a 200-300 dollar fix, sometimes a little cheaper depending. Has more to do with mileage on the car than anything. I would recommend taking it to a reputable repair shop for a once over to check the whole brake system.|||It could be any number of things. Something as little as the ABS sensor getting dislodged, but then again, maybe something more troublesome.





When it comes to brakes, I don't see any point in taking chances. Being that you own a 2005, there's a chance it's still under warranty.





Get it looked at.

What's WRONG with this CAR'S BRAKES or ABS System?

Okay, so yesterday, I had got the oil changed in the car, since then, the BRAKE idiot light on the dash board has been on. The light had come on after the person who changed the oil put the car on ramps then engaged the parking brake, then when they were done, they disengaged the parking brake, then the BRAKE light on the cluster came on.


Just today, while I was driving the car I Slightly stepped on the brake pedal and the cars' tires screeched and slowed the car down fast. The tires still have good tread, the ground and tires were dry. For 8 blocks there were no brake problems since, then when I had to brake again I depressed the brake, and it was squishy 3/4 of the way down and you could feel it was not grabbing until the last 1/4 to the floor, until I had to depress the brakes all the way to the floor just to barely stop. This was all the same day. There were smaller problems related to the brakes after the oil change, but they were not too serious as the ones today.


So in the same day within 20 minutes of each other, the car had brakes that made the tires screech when barely depressing the pedal, and another time when the car brakes would have to be depressed all the way to the floor to stop.


So I was wondering if anyone could tell me what was wrong with the car?


I don't know if there is a problem with the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), the caliper lines, or the brake fluid.


The car did Not shake, nor did the steering wheel, and the car did not pull to either side before, after nor during when the car was having problems.


There was no brake problems what-so-ever before this. The brake pads, rotors and calipers are good so they have nothing to be part of the problem.|||You might have a wheel cylinder leaking or ABS pump getting ready to go out

Has anyone had trouble with a 2000 dodge intrepid abs when the battery is bad?

My battery is going bad and getting replaced tomorrow. I have noticed the anti lock brake system acting sporatic. Has anyone else had this problem? Will the new battery correct the problem?|||Low voltage will cause issues with any computer controlled device. Once you replace battery is should be ok, worst case is you'd have to have it scanned and codes cleared.|||in any vehicle you may have trouble lights if the battery (heart of the electric system ) is not properly secured and fully charged

What does the ABS light mean in a 2000 Beetle?

It will go on sometimes (maybe only once a week) when I am driving, but when the car is stationary for hours, it will go off. Some places I have read that ABS is the airbag system. Other places say it is the anti-lock brake system. Does anyone know what it means, and if it is serious? The car brakes just fine.|||Anti-locking Brake System. I would have it looked at, it could be something with a speed sensor, which you will still have good brake, but in a emergency you might not. The ABS is computer controlled so every time you turn you key on it does a self diagnostic test and will turn the light on or off as needed. Do you hear any kind of bearing noise in the front end? I think the speed sensor for the ABS is in the front wheel bearing, if you wheel bearins is going out it could cause the ABS light to come on. Have it looked at.|||wow i read all the answers you got so far....unbelievable.....ok the abs system runs along with the braking system....your car may brake fine and won't be affected by the presence of the abs light....the ONLY way to find out what the problem is, is to have it scanned, this will pinpoint the problem..usually its an electrical problem...wheel speed sensor...ground...ect.....take it to a qualified mechanic and have it scanned and make the necessary repairs....if you want let me know what they say and i see if i can help....|||it abs is the anti lock brake system it just means you have them and the light is prolly messed up|||As others have said, it is your anti lock brake system. From experience with my wife's 2000 beetle, I would bet it is a sensor issue. We got rid of it because we were changing different sensors at least every six months after the car turned two years old. I would take it into the dealer or at least have it scanned for free at an auto parts dealer. Best of luck.|||You need to get them checked. It might not be anything but a faulty sensor but then you don't need to take that chance if it really is something wrong with the ABS system.

1996 cadillac deville the traction light andd anti lock brake light stays on...help?

Is there anything I can check or do that might remedy this problem. Any fuse or resetting of the systems, anything I can try to avoid the bringing it to a dealer. Someone said there may a fuse that controls the lights, any ideas? If i try some simple things and they don't work, i will then bring it to a dealer. Thanks|||Could be a bad wheel hub / speed sensor. Checkout this site to learn how to pull your diagnostic codes off the dash. The codes will tell you what part or sensor is causing that warring to come up.





http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cad鈥?/a>

2002 Ford Ranger 2WD, abs brake problems?

I have a 2002 Ranger, 65,000 miles, when applying the brakes the anti-lock brake system kicks in ever time I stop. Vehicle stops but the pulsating continues until removing foot from pedal, as if on ice, but I am on dry pavement. The ABS light does not come on.|||If the magnetic sensor(s) at wheels have collected too much metal shavings (from brake linings/other) it (they) may not sense the rotation of the rotor and it will react as if it is not moving (or locked up). This could cause the ABS to engage at normal braking pressure.





It could be other problems in the system, but no dash light? I'd check the sensors for contamination first.|||Simple answer


You AB System has failed.





It can be for a wide range of reasons, from it not sensing the cars motion effectively, to the computer being locked into always thinking you are breaking on ice.


If the breaks are pulsating even when you are at a compete stand still, I would suggest the motion sensing is the problem. But as I haven't worked on your specific ABS system I would suggest checking it checked by a good mechanic you trust.|||hey man, iv got a 2002 buck rendezvous and it had the same problem. We fixed it every year because the abs sensors on the hubs kept wearing out and failing. If you find the hubs that have the failing sensors the you can get them fixed|||Not sure what your question is, even if you have one. I would use common sense and take it to a shop and pay to have it checked out.|||sounds more like a warped rotor if you feel it in the steering wheel.

How do I bleed air out of brakes on a 2000 3500 Dodge Ram?

replaced brakes and pads but can't seem to bleed air out of lines. It has been suggested that I might need to disconnect the Anti-Lock brake System....of which I have no clue! Help!|||anti lock has nothing to do with it bleed normal or just start at each wheel open bleeder and gravity bleed them till fluid comes out|||gravity bleed then until you get good clear fluid from them then slowly pump the pedal up,not all at once but slowly that will help build the pedal back up if you hit them all at once or pump them hard you will throw the proportioning valve out of balance on it,good luck.

Why would the rear brakes on a 95 Honda Accord stop working?

The car stops fine using just the front brakes, however the rear brakes are covered with rust. It was just at the Honda Dealership a couple months ago to replace the anti lock brake system sensors on two of the wheels and atleast one of them was a rear wheel. Would this be a caliper, brake line, master cylinder issue or just complete coincidence?|||There could be one of many things going on with your brakes. More than likely it could be the porportioning valve is working incorrectly, master cylinder has failed, or a break in lines. If there is no fluid leaking, then the likely cause would be the master cylinder. Also check your fluid level in your master cylinder's rear brake resevoir.|||Some cars have a pressure control valve that will send the fluid to only the rear or front is there is a leak for safety. However sometimes they can get stuck and only send fluid to one set of brakes even if their isn't a leak. There could also be a clog in one of the brake lines. Could be a problem with the master cylinder. Does the parking brake work the back calipers?

Anti-lock braking issues on 2009 Subaru Forester?

I have a 2009 Subaru forester and it is having problems with its ABS braking system. On the snow, driving less than 10mph I have slid through stop signs with the ABS system activated, kind of a slow motion nightmare. This seems to be the worst when you have a slight down hill. it has happened four times now and it just caused an accident. Has anyone else had this same problem with the ABS on Subaru's being too sensitive?|||This is not an ABS issue. This is a road condition and driver issue. ABS will help you maintain control while braking when you are going through corners. But it will not make your stop shorter when you're on snow/ice. ABS can actually make stopping distances on snow/ice even longer! You'll feel the ABS working (pumping/modulation in the brake pedal), but you will continue to slide.





To limit slipping and shorten your stopping distance, I suggest:





1. Slow Down


2. Downshift (manual) or select a lower gear (automatic)


3. Make sure you have a good set of all season or snow tires


4. Slow Down|||I disagree 100%. I am driving the 2009 Subaru Forester - and I am having the same exact issues. It is not normal. It is not the user. The car is simply not reliable on even the mildest snow conditions...at very very slow speeds. It definitely slides more than any other car I have ever driven.

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|||ABS represents anti-lock breaking system, here the important word is anti-lock. As you approach the stop and start to slide, you should feel a pulsing in the brake pedal. This is the EBCM= electronic brake control module operating the system. If this is not happening, you need to return to your dealership to have the system evaluated for a malfunction. If the ABS light on your dash comes on it is warning you that a problem exists. It is also possible that your driving habits need to be reevaluated= slow down.|||Get some better tires if you have trouble in the snow and as the others say, drife more carefully. ABS does not mean the car stops in any condition trouble free. Your car has one of the best AWD abd ABS systems on the market. If you still have trouble, it's you not the car.

Anti lock brakes are triggering ever since I replaced front brake pads and rotors on 2002 Ford Escape... help?

I can't figure out why this is happening. It did not happen until I replaced the front pads and rotors on my 02' Escape.





My driver's side brake was grinder before I replaced that pads. We never got a warning squeak from the brakes, so initially I thought it was a gravel rock or something up in there, because we just drove on a gravel road. However, that was not it. When I pulled off the tired, I could see I was grinding the rotor w/ the metal brake, so I replaced the brakes and that one rotor.





Ever since I replaced the front brakes, and the drivers side rotor... I've had this problem. So, I replaced the passenger rotor thinking maybe something was wrong there if the brakes were sensing one grab before the other or somethings. I have since replaced the passenger side rotor as well, and it is still doing it. It does it mostly at low speed braking... like if I'm crawling around a neighborhood, coming up to a stop slowly... or driving through a parking lot. And, it actually seems to go away as I drive the vehicle some. For example, the car will be sitting for a couple hours... I'll go to drive it, and the ABS will trigger when I brake for the first few times, but after a few good brakes, it *seems* to stop, until it sits again.





I thought maybe there was air in the lines, but I never opened the system to let air in, and it didn't do this before I replaced the brakes and rotors. I've checked both sides w/ the wheels off, and both brakes are grabbing and releasing their respective rotor when I press down on and release the brake pedal.





What do you think is causing my ABS to trigger now?|||When dealing with Anti-lock brakes, it can be difficult because when you replace your brakes, you should always make sure that they are completely bleed. If your brakes lines have air in them, then that can cause it to trigger the sensor that something is wrong. I recommend disconnecting you battery for half an hour at max to reset your computer system. If after that try to bleed your brakes. If that doesn't work, you may have to actually bleed your anti-lock brake system. Always try to reset first. It could save you a lot of time and money.

Brake pad replacement on ABS car?

I have 2001 Honda Accord LX.





My car has ABS (anti lock brake system) brake pad on rear and front wheels. I have no problem replacing brake pad myself on cars with no ABS, but am a little uncertain about how to do it on cars with ABS.





I heard someplace you have to have key turned off and pump the brake pedal UNTIL IT FEELS SOFT (I coud be mistaken), and the rest of the steps are the same as cars with no ABS. Anyone know how to do this at home garage without going to a shop?|||go to autozones website, there is a whole section on repairs with diagrams and pictures that are specific to each car. you'll find your answer.|||Unplug the abs module, disconnect the #1 plug wire, and wave a wand over the vehicle. After these steps run around the car and next poor injector cleaner into the brake master cylinder. This will remove all contaminents from the brake system. Now you are ready to access the obd 2 plug. I know this cause I work at F and S auto repair in Redding,Ca. Any questions call 530-241-2800. Ask for Frankie.|||I have never had any issues changing pads on an ABS equipped car. The ABS system is just looking for a wheel being locked up while the others are turning, so it should be no issue at all with the steps involved in changing pads. I recently changed them on my 1999 Camry without any issues. Oh yeah, buy the BEST pads you can also.

ABS-ANTI LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM ?




i just wanted more information on how abs works (simply put) and what it has to do with FRICTION





..any information at all would be great! thanks so much|||The coefficient of static friction is well known to be larger than the coefficient of kinetic friction, i.e. once an object starts to move over its mating surface, the available friction force will be reduced. So, a tire that is skidding will produce less braking force than one that is just about to skid.





Antilock Braking Systems (ABS) control the braking force applied to bring the tire just to the point of skidding, but not actually skidding, optimizing the maximum available braking force. In an actual system, the tire may alternate between skidding and not-skidding many times per second, but it remains nearly optimum braking for a given surface.





In ABS that I'm familiar with, there are speed sensors on each wheel, and a computer controller that monitors the speed of the wheels. When it detects a sudden difference in speed, the braking pressure can be reduced to keep the wheels turning at similar speeds.





A very significant benefit of ABS is that keeping the wheels turning (and not skidding) retains steering control of the vehicle, allowing the driver to use steering in addition to maximum braking effort to avoid a collision. In non-ABS vehicles, a typical panic application of the brakes results in a 4-wheel skid, with reduced braking action and loss of steering, making the driver's continued efforts to avoid an accident all but useless.

Your Opinion on the Anti-lock Braking System?

Hello.





I am a Defensive Driving Instructor for a nationally recognized driver training program and I am conducting a survey. It would be awesome if you could answer the following statement for me:





A) Anti-lock brakes are a must on my next vehicle





B) It would be nice, but it is not critical





C) I do not like anti-lock brakes|||I clearly fall within the faction that believes that EVERY passenger vehicle should be fitted with ABS. The situations where anti lock brakes MAY be detrimental would be so rare as to make it safe to disregard those situations.





Otherwise it would be like stating that seat belts should not be worn because of the rare chance that, someday, the vehicle may fall, upside down in water and the unconscious driver would drown because he is wearing a seatbelt.





It's a remote possibility, but there are countless other, very real risks, run every day, several times a day where wearing the restraint could save one's life.





I expect that ABS will be required in EVERY passenger vehicle, someday, and I would support and applaud such regulation.|||C at first it hard getting used to, but after one winter its nice not have them|||B, A, c|||if you are a racer then abs should not be a must for you. the driver should be the anti lock brake system ( Initial D ).|||There are only two situations where i feel anti-lock brakes are a detriment rather than a huge benefit. 1 is low speed on pure ice, the other is mud, and loose gravel/sand. In any other case anti-lock may be hard to get used to, but has been proven to reduce stopping distance and control. I Have had it save my butt a number of times, in a number of vehicles, from passenger cars all the way to Tractor-Trailers. And the argument for an experienced driver being able to out perform them has been proven wrong in all but the highest levels of racing professionals. A lot of people fancy themselves as much better drivers than they actually are. Fact is more than likely if you are not Tony Stewart, Michel Shumacher, or Cruz Pendragon, you should learn to trust and use them correctly.|||A) - With today's advancement in technology every safety precaution should be taken advantage of.


Why not it may save lives.|||a|||Answer is A.


I have had ABS since 1994. I like having them.


I have driven a long time before I had a car with ABS. I believe this is a good safety feature.


During the winter I mount dedicated snow and ice tires. Bridgestone Blizzaks. Offers tremendous traction on snow and ice.


If car is not stopping fast enough when the brakes are applied, I put transmission into neutral. Really helps stop the car.


Now if the question is about Traction Control, then I am not so enthused. Sometimes it is handy, other times it is a disadvantage.|||A|||C. I do not like them.


I drive in various bad conditions, and I was well taught.


I do not like the trend of taking control from the operator and putting it in machinery's hands (for lack of a better term).


I believe that operators should be taught not just control, but also responsibility. Both are sadly lacking today. It is getting worse as cars become "safer". Truth is, I feel they attempt to compensate for inadequate skills.

Brake system on a 1997 Grand Prix GTP?

What could cause the anti lock brake light, low tire pressure light and the low traction light to come on at the same time? When it happens it's when you are pushing on the brakes and it feels like the brakes disengage for a second and then they catch. But it doesn't do it all the time just once in a while. As soon as the car is stopped the lights go off.


I don't notice any fluids leaking onto the driveway, so could it be a sensor or the computer?


My husband doesn't seem worried about it, he said he doesn't know how the mechanic would be able to hook the computer to it since it only does it when you are driving and apply the brakes sometimes. I say, that's what they are there for and they will figure it out. I don't want the kids in the car until it's fixed. We have a new car I can drive. But sometimes we need two vehicles and he'll take one of our kids with him.


I'm taking it to a mechanic, but I won't be able to for a little over a week. I was just looking for ideas.


Thank You|||These functions are most likely controlled by one unit. Depending on the functionality of the ecu, sometimes they can run tests on a vehicle while its not moving through the serial interface, sometimes not, but if you take it to a dealer they should be able to pinpoint the problem by determining what controls all of those functions. There are computers hidden all over newer vehicles in the interior that control everything from your alarm system to how fast your blinkers blink to how long to keep the dome lights on after you shut the door. Either way, if there is a malfunction i personally wouldnt allow my kids to ride around in it, as it could cause anything that computer controls to malfunction, such as the ABS kicking in at 60 mph. There also may be a recall on it and the dealer knows there is a problem, in which case they will fix it for free.


Hope that helps.|||go to http://www.autozone.com and look under the repair section and you also buy part|||Call Dave Finkelstine. He is on Saturday AM on 97.1 Talk in St. Louis. This guy is someone people call when they have taken the car to a shop and they can't repair it.





His show is streamed from the website below. You will have to register.|||That is the ABS system at work. A sensor is telling the brake a wheel has stopped and the ABS want to get the wheel rolling again. If the wheels are rolling when it happens you will need to have it check. The system does a self diagnostic check and will shut the ABS off if it lose signal from one of the sensors.


When you start the car the ABS light should come on then go off this is the computer telling you that it is checking it. If it fails the light will normally not go off.

Bleeding the air from a cars brake system?

I have opened the hydraulic system serving the rear brakes on a 2005 toyota camry. Rather than have a person pumping the brake pedal- my usual method- couldn't I simply fill the master cylinder and pull fluid through the system at each rear wheel cylinder using a vacuum pump and a catch jar? The car has anti lock brakes if this matters. Also, I removed the brake lines from the rear cylinders and drained all the fluid. Will it be necessary to bleed the front brakes? The master cylinder reservoir is now very low on fluid ,but I believe the front and rear brakes are nearly separate systems, sharing only a common master cylinder which has two separate fluid supplies. Thanks|||yes... a vaccum bleeder is the best and preferred method to bleed automotive brake systems now





and although as you say... the front and rear brakes are basically seperate...it is still a good idea to bleed both





and start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder.. typically the passenger side rear, and make sure to keep the master cylinder topped off while bleeding so as to not draw in more air when the resevoir gets low


then do the driver side rear, then the passenger front, then driver front





if you emptied the lines you are going to be there awhile... so make sure you have plenty of new clean fluid on hand , best to have 2 people ..one to keep the resevoir topped off while the other uses the vaccum bleeder





heres how the vaccum bleeders work.... make sure the bleed screw is loosened before starting, (not stuck), then lightly tighten it, then connect the vaccum hose and begin pumping the vaccum tool a few times to build the pressure...then loosen the bleeder one quarter turn until the vaccum is released then close the bleeder again and begin again... until the fluid runs smooth with no "spitting" from air in the line|||I have done this on a motorcycle before, but I wonder whether an anti-lock brake system might impair your ability to vacuum out the bubbles. You could also grab a stick or a 2x4 or something to hold down the pedal after you pump it, and bleed it out the normal way. Just stick your bleeder hose on the nipple, and use a piece of tape or rubberband to stick the other end of the hose in a small jar. Fill up the master cyl and put about a half inch of brake fluid in the jar. Then go and pump your brakes, get all the bubbles out, use your 2x4 to keep the pedal down while you go and tighten the nipple, and then release the 2x4. Super easy.

Brake Issue with a 1995 Pontiac Grand Am?

I have a 1995 Pontiac Grand Am with the 3.1 V6. I am having an issue diagnosing the issue that i am having with the brakes. There will be times when i am turning into a parking spot or coming to a slow stop when i will get a whirring sound from the brakes when they are applied. It sounds as if the anti lock brake system is trying to engage, but is not fully performing its duty since it will lock the brakes in one place instead of applying them multiple times to keep from locking up the tires If it is dry outside or slightly wet with rain i do not have an issue with the tires other than its a slightly uncontrolled stop...and a bit of annoyance. But It will lock the tires when it is snowing or icy on the roads, which for me is not a good thing. I have not had too much of an issue with it, since i know its going to happen so i compensate for it, but i would like to be able to resolve the issue, so that i could confidently allow others to drive my vehicle. If anyone could offer me some suggestions to look at or a definite answer that would be fantastic. There are not many places around here that i trust not to rip me off and none of them offer a free estimate.|||wheel speed sensors bad..the ABS lite is on right? i pulled the fuse on mine because i got tired of paying 150 dollars a sensor...after 2 no more ..No ABS, no problem.

Does a 1990 or 1991 nissan 240sx have anit-lock braking system?

I was thinking about buying a 91 nissan 240sx but if it doesn't have anti-lock brakes i don't kno if i should buy it. How much does it usually cost to install anti-lock brakes?|||The 240sx had antilock brakes starting with its intro here in the US in 1989. They were available as an option on the SE trim level. The 1990 is a dog, with a SOHC version of the 2.4 engine that was in the Stanza of the same year. It went to a DOHC version in 1991. You want a '91 or '92 SE w/ ABS. You could install ABS in the aftermarket for about $3500 - $5000. The ABS module alone is $750.|||anti locks are not something that you can add aftermarket. I do not believe that the 91 has antilocks, but neither did ANY vehicle up until the 90's and people drove just fine for that first 100 years...lol|||Older cars usually don't have ABS. If your car doesn't come with ABS, it isn't possible to install ABS afterward. The ABS just pulses the brakes for you. If your car doesn't have ABS and your car skids when you brake, just use your feet to physically pulse on the brakes (just step and lift your feet on the brakes lightly, that imitates the ABS system, of course not as well though).|||gowith the 300zx they come with atni lock brakes








Nissan 300ZX 08536 (New Jersey, Plainsboro) 1991 85,000 $2800


color: Orange, As you can see, the car is in very good condition. I must sell it asap, so if you have any questions, please contact me and I will give you more details about the car., Air Condition, Alarm, Alloy Wheels, Anti-lock Brakes, Climate Control, Cruise Control,


5239404977, arnaud.garrec@hotmail.com


Keyless Entry, Power Lock, Power Steering,...

What is the differences between ABS & anti locking system ?

abs - anti brake locking system|||ABS stands for anti-lock braking system. There is no such term as anti locking system for brakes, it is just shortened verbiage for anti-lock braking system. Or possibly a person writing who does not have English as a first language.|||its exactly the same thing.|||None.|||My mom told me they are the same thing.......thanks mom|||Anti-lock


Breaking


System





Same thing....|||There's nothing called anti-locking system - It's called anti-lock braking system (i.e., ABS.)|||waht he said :-)|||they are the same thing

Do 2002 Hyundai Elantras have anti-lock braking systems (ABS)?

thank you [:|||Many did, probably most. Some did not though. As logical as it would seem to make ABS standard, it is not required by law to have ABS on a vehicle, and therefore, some Elantras were made without it.





Easy wasy to tell is to look at the dash when the key is turned to the "On" position. If the vehicle has ABS, there will be a light that lights up. It's amber colored and it says ABS.|||If you have the original paperwork that come with the car it will tell you if this was included on the vehicle, it may have been an option. Otherwise as the other person responded it will light up ABS on your dash when you turn the key. If that idiot light doesn't appear then the vehicle is not equipped with ABS.

Problem with Anti lock brakes engaging all the time during normal braking?

I have a 2002 chevy cavalier, has some electrical problems, service light and abs light come on whenever it rains, or snows...never had an issue with the brakes. lately the abs system has been engaging whenever i tried to brake, not at a fast speed, normal braking works fine until almost stopping, then the abs kicks in, causing car to slide at least once or twice. not sure what the deal is, not an expert with vehicles!.|||You need to have someone plug into it and get the ABS code(s).

What causes the ABS to kick in for no reason just before almost stopping is either a bad wheel speed sensor or loose or cracked tone ring or rusted out tone ring or the harness to the sensor is rubbing through on something and/or shorting from water. The tone ring is what spins and the sensor is stationary and reads off the tone ring.

I think your car has sealed hub bearing's where the sensor and tone ring is. Therefore, from your description, I would almost bet that the harness/wiring to the sensor is messed up somewhere in the wheel well area. The code(s) will tell you which of the 4 wheel's has the problem.



The reason the ABS kicks in and actually Tries to stop the car is because whichever wheel sensor is compromised, it's simply lying to the computer and giving it bogus mph/kph speeds. Simple.



I had a Lincoln Continental that had a bad wheel speed sensor and the first two lite stops in the morning pulling out of my own street the ABS system would kick on and slam on the brakes nearly putting my head into the steering wheel! I pulled the ABS fuse until I could get around to finding the bad wheel speed sensor. Pulling the fuse is always an option as it will completly disable the ABS. Athough that's not my recomendation to cure the problem.



The ABS system is capable of applying and releasing the brakes. Trust me, ABS can make a car stop, and it's scary and it's always one of the 4 wheel speed sensors lying!|||the abs should shut down at any speed below 5 mph. the other guy is right though, abs is designed to eliminate the lock up condition, not create it.

Why are my anti lock brakes triggering ever since I replaced my front brake pads and driver side rotor?

I have a 2002 Ford Escape. Just replaced the front brake pads, and the driver's side rotor.





Why are my anti-lock brakes triggering when brake? I checked the fluid, and if anything, it's a little high (over the MAX level a bit). Could replacing one, and not both rotors cause this? What do you think is causing it, and/or how do I fix it?





How would I go about turning off the ABS system so it doesn't do it?|||It's possible that there is some air in the brake lines. The brake lines need to be "bled" properly to get all the air out, otherwise, you can experience the problem that you're having.





If that doesn't solve the problem then the mechanic will have to reassemble the brake calipers to make sure they are properly assembled and that they are calibrated properly.





Good luck!|||It must have been difficult picking the best answer.. :-) Seriously, I hope your problem is fixed. Have a nice day.

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Do 1977 Camaros have anti-lock braking systems? ?

My insurance company needs to know.





Thank you!|||Nope, not even close. I have a 78 Trans Am and it has nothing close to ABS. Front rotor brakes and rear drums were a standard set up I believe unless you had an SS in wh ich case I believe you got four wheel disk brakes, but still no ABS.





ABS requires some sort of electronic or computer module in order to function and none of the F-bodies came with ANY sort of hardware like that until the 1980 model year, and even then the VERY crude computers were only used to adjust the spark advance.|||no. Was not used back then.|||I doubt it, I don't even think ABS was around back then.|||no, in fact virtually no cars had abs back then. a few over the road big rigs were used to experiment with abs, and some race car builders were experimenting with abs. the reality is that abs braking systems didn't start hitting the market until the mid to late 80's.|||No. Only the Europeans were using ABS as optional equipment on their higher end cars.

How do i disengage the anti-lock system on my 98 chevy blazer. ?

every time it is wet out or even if there is something remotely slippery on the road when i go to put the brakes on with a little more pressure than normal i get a strange noise and feel the brake not working. i would much rather put it in neautral and brake because to me this is safer than the anti lock that doesnt work|||Remove any fuse or relay for ABS, if not,disconnect any wheel speed sensor.When the ABS computer detects fault,it will disable its operation and turn a warning light on dash.|||If your ABS is active, you will feel/hear a vibration through the brake pedal, this is normal and means your ABS is doing it's job. Your ABS is also failsafe, so if it isn't working then you will be using your normal brakes anyway. I wouldn't reccomend trying to disable it as there is no point.

Thursday, November 24, 2011

What's the purpose of anti-lock braking systems?

I know it's meant to keep the car from skidding, and the idea is when wheels are sliding, they are undergoing kinetic friction, which is smaller than static friction, so it takes longer to slow the car down.





If kinetic friction is really smaller than static friction, then why is it easier to move an object with wheels, versus and object that has no wheels?





I'm hearing that there is a third type of friction called rolling friction, which is even less than kinetic friction. If this is the case, then anti-lock braking systems are pointless, because you want to wheels to slide instead of roll.|||It's easier to move an object with wheels because the friction (static or kinetic, but probably static) is not opposing the motion of the vehicle, it's only opposing the forward motion of the bottom of the wheel. The very bottom part of the wheel never moves forward at all in non-skidding rolling. The wheel gets "around" friction by moving the part of it that isn't in contact with the ground.



Rolling friction is the combined effect of forces that oppose the rotation of the wheel. It includes friction in the wheel bearing (the part that attaches the rotating wheel to the non-rotating axle, usually designed to minimize friction). It also includes tiny non-elastic deformation of the wheel where it meets the ground. (That effect can be seen in an exaggerated way if your tire pressure is low.)



So how can you stop your car if rolling friction is low? Increase the rolling friction. When you apply your brakes, the pad presses into the disc or drum, creating friction - rolling friction because it becomes part of the forces that oppose the rotation of the wheel.



You still need static and/or kinetic friction because rolling friction is an effect between the car and the wheel. You additionally need an effect between the wheel and the ground to actually stop the car. If you were driving slowly on perfectly frictionless ice, and you put the car in neutral, the wheels would stop spinning in maybe a minute because of the rolling friction, but the car would keep moving. If you put on the brakes, the wheels would stop spinning almost instantly and the car would keep moving.



If you had ABS, it would kick in and disable the brakes, but it wouldn't help because normally it's the friction with the road that starts your wheels spinning again after they lock. There would be no friction with the ice to start them moving again. In reality ice is not completely frictionless, so ABS might help on ice still.|||I've had both. The anti-lock brakes definitely stop faster. Especially in snow, if you lock your brakes, you're sliding and barely stopping. Anti-lock brakes perform better.





Kinetic friction between two materials is USUALLY smaller than static friction. Their are some rare material combinations where this is not the case.





"If kinetic friction is really smaller than static friction, then why is it easier to move an object with wheels, versus and object that has no wheels?"





The wheel has the least surface area making contact with the ground, meaning least impact of friction.





You also have to consider that with anti-lock brakes, it's the pad touching the wheel that slows the car, vs. without anti-lock brakes, it's the wheel making contact with the road that is stopping the car. The friction experienced between these two is different, and with anti-lock brakes it's more friction.|||The point of anti-lock breaks is to stop the car as quickly as possible without the car skidding. (I'm going to leave out the different types of friction so I don't confuse you) When the brakes are fully applied and a car starts to skid, you have to wait until that car stops skidding in order for the brakes to work again, but this usually doesn't happen before you hit a tree or go off the road).





With anti-lock brakes the computer controls the force on the brakes so that the tires are always rolling, if the car starts to skid then the brakes release really quick to allow the tires to roll.(The chatter back and forth very quickly) By allowing the tires to roll you can now effectively put all your braking power into stopping the car without having to wait for the car to stop skidding.... Hope that helps|||Rolling friction is what allows you to steer the vehicle. If the wheels are locked up, the kinetic friction is much greater than the rolling friction and the vehicle skids out of control - turning the wheel essentially maintains the same contact patch which has no significant effect on turning the vehicle.


Static friction is essentially what holds the vehicle on a hill when the brakes are applied.


ABS brakes apply the brakes and releases them many times faster than the operator can to provide both kinetic and rolling friction to allow the driver to maintain control in a panic stop.|||I take it you're not a driver. It becomes pretty clear when you are. Basically if you're driving a car without ABS and you have to stop suddenly, the stopping of the wheels provokes a slide because of the weight of the car (kinetic friction). So in order to stop, you have to pump the brake - the initial braking (static friction, if only for a fraction of a second) slows you more than a continuous slide. Pumping the brake slows you much, much more quickly. Stop - slide - stop - slide is better than stop - slide all the way to your target.|||The theory behind anti-lock brakes is simple. A skidding wheel (where the tire contact patch is sliding relative to the road) has less traction than a non-skidding wheel. If you have been stuck on ice, you know that if your wheels are spinning you have no traction. This is because the contact patch is sliding relative to the ice (see Brakes: How Friction Works for more). By keeping the wheels from skidding while you slow down, anti-lock brakes benefit you in two ways: You'll stop faster, and you'll be able to steer while you stop.

In my 1999 Chevy Blazer I am having a brake issue.?

When I press the brakes, when I am going slow, it feels like the anti-lock system is coming on. When I push hard on them it does not happen. Is there something wrong with my anti-lock brake system?|||You may have a defective wheel speed sensor. I am assuming the feeling that you are experiencing is a sort of buzz/pulsation. To differentiate this problem from a out of round rotor, take the vehicle to a WIDE OPEN parking lot. Bring it up to 35 mph and slam on the brakes and don't release the pedal. Your ABS should kick in and you should feel the same vibration that you are suspecting at low speed. That vibration is the ABS pump unit now cycling the valve motors in the hydraulic unit. A scan tool can confirm this condition by observing all the speed sensors on the wheels in real time and if a sensor is suspect then an erroneous reading(s) will show up.





Good Luck





A wheel speed sensor that has an open circuit will trigger the ABS lamp. A wheel speed sensor that has a significant difference of reading as opposed to the other sensors will trigger a ABS lamp. A wheel speed sensor that is off slightly will not trigger an ABS lamp but will cause the aforementioned problem. I have replaced them just for this concern. One other fact is if the exciter ring(s) are cracked, it will also cause this concern.|||If there is you better get to a dealer or brake specialist--they are nothing to fool with--my vibration was like yours and it wound up being totally worn out brakes up front--now it is all smooth again--and stops much better. I have a 99 Suburban. You gotta do it so get going---and you need a total job for effective stopping...make sure you don't half step it !!|||if it were a wheel speed sensor or any other electrical problem it should command the abs light on and disable the abs system. if the light is not illuminated it sounds like your rotors are too thin or out of round, good luck|||there may not be enough brake fluid or there may be a bad sensor

When were Anti-lock Braking Systems created?

The antilock brake system was first developed in 1947 for use on the B-47 bomber.





In 1985 the first antilock brake system (ABS) was introduced for motor vehicles in the United States as a safety feature to give drivers more control when braking. ABS uses a microprocessor and individual wheel-speed sensors to monitor the brakes.|||military aircraft, from what i understand.

Why my Saab's brake system hold tight all the time?

1999 Saab 9-5 (4 cyl).


The car feels heavy to drive and would slow down to a complete stop when I just release the gas. I mean it comes to a complete stop without even stepping on the brake pad. Also I have noticed my wheels are covered with brake pad dust and the car smells like burnt brake pads when I drive it. Oh, by the way, this car has anti-lock brakes system (ABS), with four disc brakes including two ventilated discs.


So I took to a mechanic he checked all the tires, and for some reason all tires stay locked all the time. He couldn鈥檛 figure what it was. He advised me to go to a dealer. Before doing that I need to at least have an idea of what the problem is, and an estimation of much it may cost me to fix it. Your help will be highly appreciated.


Thanks!|||sounds like calipers are seized, replace em!|||Sounds like power steering fluid got into the master cylinder!

Need help in finding how to repair anti-lock brake systemin 1993 Dodge Caravan?

I purchased the van a year ago and the mechanic told me that he "disconnected" the ABS system and that I shouldn't have a problem with it. I used it this morning and my brake pedal is hard as a rock!!! There is brake fluid in it. I can't break without using 2 feet to stomp on the pedal. What could be going on??? I need advice and soon. The pedal is hard wheather the van is on or off. There isn't any give at all.|||It sounds like you have no power assist. Make sure you have vacuum going to the brake booster(big round thing behind the master cylinder) also there should be a one way vacuum check valve there to keep vacuum in the booster. You can disconnect that valve %26amp; blow through it one way %26amp; not the other if it working properly.With your ABS disconnected you should still have normal braking capabilties|||I will tell you right now that George hit it right on the nose. Sounds like the mech that you took it to was trying to get you to come in for more repairs and screwed up your booster. That way you would think that there was bigger issues, he would charge you big money, and do nothing but reverse what he did. Sounds like you need to find a better mech. Try eautorepair.net. It will give you all that you need to know about scheduled maint, recalls, and troubleshoot and repairs. It is only $39.95 for 4 years on 1 vehicle. Damn good tool to have.|||Go to any Chrysler,Jeep, Or Dodge service department. The abs is covered under recall 685. They may charge you some fees to reconnect the system since it has been tampered with. But this "Hard peddle" is a known problem in the abs system in Caravans of that time.

Anti-lock Brakes problem!?

I drive a 1997 Chevrolet Suburban. The Anti-Lock Brake system in this thing is so screwed up. If I'm going a good speed such as 55 or something like that, everything is fine and the brakes work the way they should. But if I'm going through a town at like 25 or slower, the damn system kicks in and stops the suburban SUDDENLY, nearly putting my face into the steering wheel (for some reason the seat belt won't catch me most of the time.) The brakes squeak very loudly also. Basically.. what should I do? Have the brakes replaced? Can I turn the Anti-Lock Brakes off? If so, how can I? Or can the whole system be replaced along with the brakes? How much would that generally cost? OR is this normal? (I sure hope not.) So many questions, I'm just so lost about this whole thing. Thanks to any help you car smart people can give me!|||I had a chevy blazer that did the same thing. It was where the brake fluid goes into the ABS box, theres a piston in there that was malfunctioning causing the brakes to kick in or push the pedal back up and not stop. So I just unplugged the power to the ABS box. It fixed the problem, but I didn't have anti lock brakes anymore. Understand this was years ago when I was younger and didn't have the money to properly fix it. But I did take it to a certified chevy dealer, %26amp; because it didn't read a code, they drove it and said there was nothing wrong with it. But they gladly took my money.

Here's a link below on ebay that might be for your truck, that was wrong with mine. Hope this helps, this is a common problem with 90's gm %26amp; chevy cars and trucks. My friend had a 90's grand am with the same problem.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-97-CHE鈥?/a>|||Doesn't sound like antilock problems. Antilock brings the vehicle to a safe stop by pulsating the brakes at a rapid rate. Braking distance can be shortened by controlling the wheels from sliding. Have your vehicle inspected. But for god sake dont go to JUST BRAKES. They're a rip off. May need new rotors, pads, and brake system bled to remove air from the system to balance the braking of the vehicle. Contaminated rotor surfaces and pad surfaces can also cause grabbing at slow speeds. This could be from a leaking brale line or bad bearing seal.|||I'm pretty sure the ABS module (a seperate computer for just the abs) needs to be replaced. Its a somewhat common problem that surfaces. You can get rebuilt units off the internet, search Module Master. The brakes squeaking is a seperate issue, best to have new rotors and pads installed.|||you have a bad front abs sensor....it is the whole hub bearing assy.. I have replaced many for this same problem. 3-400. bucks installed...FIRST HAVE ALL YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM CHECKED BY A PRO...then.you can disable the abs system by unhooking one of the sensors and it will put it in abs default and your light will stay on..you will no longer have abs or the problem you are describing you will just have normal regular braking like the old days|||Like someone else said, it's NOT the ABS.


Your brakes are in need of servicing.


They're probably worn completely out and your ruining your rotors and possibly your calipers if you keep driving.





Do you remember the last time you had your brake pads replaced?|||sounds like you should get some new brakes, maybe the rotors turned too. I would get the brake system bleed out and go from there. Normally, you can go in to any shop that deals with brakes and the prices vary.

Physics of ABS (anti lock brakes) ? help..?

Find the difference in stopping distance for an average car going at reasonable speed on snow with an anti-lock brake system over the same car going without an ABS ???





you can assume numbers to explain the question, and formulas.|||Weird question...





The main advantage of anti-lock brakes is actually that it allows you to continue steering through the skid, but it still also has more braking power.





The braking power difference stems from the difference between static and kinetic friction coefficients. When two objects are touching, and not moving, their friction is greater, but as soon as you overcome the friction and begin to slide, there is actually less friction then when the object is holding still.





Ever try to push something really heavy, and it took a lot of force to get it moving, but not all that much to keep it moving? Same thing is happening.





When a tire is rolling, there is actually no sliding, or kinetic friction. A portion of the tire and ground make contact, and then that portion of the tire is lifted up and replaced with a new portion (basically, the wheel is rolling, not sliding) so a rolling tire has much more friction.





When you brake and skid, your tires lock and you slide. This uses the kinetic friction coefficient which is lower then the static one. Anti-lock brakes detect a slide and make the wheels start rolling again, so you use the static coefficient.





For numbers, I believe rubber on asphalt has a static coefficient of 0.8, and a kinetic of 0.6 (could be wrong on those, doing them from memory). So anti-lock brakes could stop in 3/4 the distance that non anti-lock brakes could.





Let's make up coefficients of 0.5 and 0.3 for static and kinetic friction between rubber and snow (or look them up, doesn't matter).





Let's assume the ability for the car to brake is denoted by the variable x (a function of weight and speed). And with anti-lock brakes it stops in 100 feet. Then you'd have x/(0.5) = 100





This means x = 50





So without anti-lock brakes, you'd have 50/(0.3) = 166.7 feet.





This is really, REALLY hand-wavy and assuming many things, but again, it's a strange question, not sure how detailed it wants you to be.





If you have a feeling it wants more math then this then, well, hopefully my explanation at least helped with the theory behind it.|||THis is about the difference between static friction and sliding friction.


Assume the car with ABS keeps the tires turning and the car without locks them up and skids.


Since KE = W = FD, D will go as one over F


THe Fs in the same ratio as the coefficients of friction, as g and the car's mass are constant

How do you stop quickly on an icy road w/ ABS? w/out ABS? (anti-lock breaking system)?

If you were driving down the icy road and needed to stop quickly in a short distance, how would you stop with an anti-lock breaking system? Without anti-lock, just regular brakes?|||To answer your question as asked- "How do you stop quickly on any icy road....?"


You don't stop quickly, regardless of whether you have ABS or not. You come to a controlled slow stop to prevent skidding, losing control of your vehicle and eventually crashing.


The driving instructor covered all of the steps, so I won't reiterate the steps involved.|||First of all "IF you were driving down the icy road", you should be aware of this icy road and reduce your speed, therefore decreasing your stopping (and skidding) distance.


Also you should increase your following distance in order that you save the front end of your vehicle from damage too, and keep your eyes on those brake lights ahead.


Depending on the type of weather and snow/ice cover you have will determine how long it takes you to stop.


If the temp. is just around the freezing point, there is more moisture present in the snow/ice and therefore the road surface will be "wetter" or more slippery.........like driving through a slurpee.


If the temp. is well below the freezing point, the moisture in the snow/ice is frozen and therefore the road surface will be "tacky" and you'll have a bit more traction.


When you brake on ice or snow, or any other time you have to stop quickly, using "threshold braking", which is applying the brake fast right down to the point before you lock up, and then ease up, will actually stop your vehicle in less distance than applying the ABS.


ABS brakes are intended for those who don't have the skills to handle a vehicle properly


ABS brakes were developed because drivers without proper skills panic, lock up the brake and then try to steer. By doing this they skid straight ahead (without ABS brakes).


If these unskilled drivers lock up the brakes (without ABS brakes), and then suddenly discover they are skidding straight ahead, they may (and oten do) come off the brake suddenly, which then takes them off in the direction they were steering (often across the median into oncoming vehicles).


ABS brakes work in a very high speed intermittent braking (on and off ) method, which allows some steering.


This helps correct driver error.


If you develop proper braking and steering techniques, you will know that you never brake and steer at the same time. You should of course try to brake, and then if you can't stop, you should come off the brake and steer around the object, looking where you want to go (your hands follow your eyes), and then brake again once you are straight and safe.


This is easy to say, but takes practice to develop technique.


Anti lock brakes are meant to be applied steadily, not pumped.


The next time you find an empty parking lot during winter conditions, try it. Measure how long it takes you to stop with both methods.


Good Question!|||For vehicles without ABS, you'll have to rely on the old-fashioned system....





For non-ABS on a mixed-surface road, push the brake pedal hard until the wheels stop rolling, then immediately release the brake enough to allow the wheels to begin turning again. Repeat this sequence rapidly.





This is not the same as "pumping the brake." Your goal is to have the tires producing maximum grip regardless of whether the surface is snow, ice or damp pavement.





With ABS brakes just hit the pedal thats it...|||with non abs you pump the breaks just enough to to where the brakes don't lock up


on abs your susposto to just hold the pedal down and you will feel it pulsate


but most abs systems are junk today and if you try pumping manually with a abs system vs just pushing down on the pedal and letting the system take over with the same car on the same road under the same conditions some cars will perform better with manual pumping of the breaks


on ice though your breaks are pretty much useless


without thinking though abs is better then if you slammed on the breaks on a non abs car


i switch back and forth so much i just get into the habit of treating the car like it has no abs





going slow and having good tires/traction is your best bet


in many cases the worst thing you can do on ice is to break hard or accelerate fast because this could cause the car to slide it is better to try to cruise(not use cruise control) over the patch until you get to a area that has better traction





goodluck|||With ABS, just stomp on the pedal and let the anti-lock brakes do the work for you. Without ABS, feather the brake pedal to the point of almost locking ( threshold braking ) but don't allow them to lock-up. If they do, you will not have any steering control. Either way though, it will take a long time to brake on ice. It is therefore very important to drive accordingly to conditions and keep your speeds down on slippery roads.|||abs..step on brake and steer....no abs...pump brake and steer...best to be going slow...vvvveeeerrry slow

How do you reset the anti locking braking system light on a 1998 v70?

If you're getting that light it's more than likely another problem. Those models had a real problem with the ABS module going bad. You will either need to have the module replaced or have it repaired. The link below is for someone who does the repairs.

What are the causes of faulty anti locking braking system in a car?

Yes, need for more info like year, make, model and why you are asking. Is your dash light on?





There are many components in an ABS. Probably the most common cause of problems is a sensor. Each wheel has one and they see very rough service for an electrical component. And when a bearing goes bad, it 'tattles' on that wheel bearing.





Good luck.|||you need to give more info .you could have a bad speed sensor or some other problem

Anti-Lock Braking System $$$?

I was wondering if it is possible to install ABS to a 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix. What would be the price to get it done right, at a pontiac dealership or at a Mechanic Garage. Thank you.|||man your talking alot of bucks if you take it to a dealer man don't do that they will rob you cost you there $600.00...take to a reg garge will cost also.....$275.00 this avg $75.00 hr...good luck|||Your 2006 should already have ABS. It's standard on all 2006 Grand Prix according to Edmunds.com. Are you replacing them or doing a brake job? Those are different issues and questions.|||I do not know about american cars from a manufacture point of view. In canada a 2006 grand prix ,abs is standard equipment,in which all the various equipment ,controls and sensors will be present. I would think it is standard equipment also in the us consult with your local dealer for verification.|||2006 Grand Prix' came with ABS as standard equipment.Are you sure you want to INSTALL it or does your not work properly and you need it fixed? Take it to a Pontiac dealer to answer these questions.

ABS-ANTI LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM ?

i just wanted more information on how abs works (simply put) and what it has to do with FRICTION





..any information at all would be great! thanks so much|||anti lock brakes are designed to prevent wheel lock up when braking. a locked wheel will not stop a car as quickly as a turning wheel. for a optimal stop distance, the tire should turn approx 10% slower than the car. in a abs system there is a sensor at 2 to 4 of the wheels. a computer interprets the speeds from the sensors to see if a wheel is approaching lock up before the car is stopped. if one of the tires is losing speed faster than the rest, an actuator will stop hydraulic pressure to that wheel. if the wheel does not catch up to the others, it will then activate a pump to reduce pressure. the pump sends fluid back to the master cylinder and can be felt through the brake pedal as it kicks back. usually the only time the anti lock system does anything at all is on ice or other hazards, but if you stomp the brake pedal hard enough, it will go to work.


by the way, abs systems, when functioning properly, eliminate the need to pump your brakes when stopping because the car will do it for you. the abs system is superior to pumping to avoid lock up because it is always monitoring wheel speeds, it only pumps when needed, and can operate each tire individually.|||what ABS does, is when it feels that the wheels are locking up when you brake, it releases the brakes slightly so that you can get more traction when stopping. It's supposed to allow you to be able to steer while coming to a quick stop.|||The brakes rapidly engage and release, so you don't lose turning ability.|||ABS pumps the brakes faster than you can... when it scenes a wheel skidding the pump turns on and quickly applies and releases the brakes so that the tires do not lock up.





This is done because when a tire locks up it looses traction, and you cannot steer. ABS does not decrease braking distance, it's purpose is to maintain control when braking, meaning you can still steer (somewhat) the car when the ABS activates.

Anti lock brakes on a 2005 Lincoln Town Car?

I have a 2005 Lincoln Town Car and the front disk feel at time like they are warped. When all you do is drive around town for a while they feel fine, but when you get on the road and get them heated up the feel warped. Will it do any good to replace the front disk. It seems like if they were warped they would be warped all the time. Or could this have anything to do with the anti lock system. The anti lock brake light isn't on.|||You most probably have a caliper just starting to bind. Have the caliper slides cleaned and lubed and that should straighten it out.|||IF THE ABS LITE IS OFF,ITS PROBABLY THE CALIPER(FREEZING UP), ROTOR


(UNEVEN WEAR) OR BEARING (GETTING SEAZED)... CHECK IT OUT !!!

Can anyone explain Anti-Lock Braking system to me? (abs)?

ABS can improve vehicle stability, steerability and stopping capability.


When the braking force created by the driver is greater than the tire can handle, the wheel can lock up. Locked wheels can create vehicle instability problems and prevent steering around obstacles in the road. Stopping distance on many slippery surfaces will also increase with locked wheels. Four-wheel ABS prevents wheel lock-up in situations in which the wheels might normally lock, such as on slippery roads.





A website with a lot of info


http://www.abs-education.org/faqs/faqind鈥?/a>|||The system measures how quickly the wheels are turning. If a wheel stops turning while the others are still turning the system releases brake pressure to all the wheels until the stopped wheel begins turning and then automatically reapplies pressure if your foot is still on the brake.

Anti-lock braking system?

My 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix does not have ABS! Is that a big deal? Btw, I live in PA so there is a descent amount of snow here every year.|||The only time ABS brakes come into play is in an emergency stop situation, so it shouldn't be a big deal. If you've learned to drive with ABS, just keep in mind that if you have to make a panic stop on slick roads you'll have to do it the way us old-timers learned, by pumping the brake pedal manually. If you lock your brakes with non ABS you will not be able to steer. Applying and releasing your brakes in small increments will give you the ability to steer. Just be careful on slick roads and don't tailgate or put yourself in a situation where you need to make a sudden stop and you'll be fine.|||Are you sure it doesn't?? I havent heard of an 05 without abs|||no, but its better if u have it|||Just make sure when its slippery dont slam on the brake|||It means you have to do more work (pumping your brakes) when braking in slick conditions.|||well if you lived in a place with no snow then yes it would be very big but since you have snow it makes it safer so your car dose not slide so it is very normal|||I am sure it has ABS, my 2001 does. Operations wise no, it doesn't hurt, you will just skid more if you hit the brakes hard. As far at the snow, I live in North Dakota and drove a vehicle without ABS. As long as you are careful and don't slam on the brakes you are fine. Just pump them a bit and it will get the job done.|||It should have ABS standard. Why do you say you do not have it?





2005 Pontiac Grand Prix Sedan Handling, Ride %26amp; Braking Standard Features


- Four-wheel ABS


- Four disc brakes including two ventilated discs


- Electronic brake distribution


- Electronic traction control via ABS %26amp; engine management





If you really don't, It's not a big deal if you know how to drive. When you slide, pump your brakes, don't slam on them. Slamming on the brakes will make them lock and then you'll be in trouble (hence why cars come with ABS). If you find yourself in a sliding situation and you hit your breaks and hear/feel a "crunching"/"pulsating" from your brake pedal..........you have ABS. But it's still all about your driving skill in the ice.|||i have a 2000 grand prix w/ abs it's the first abs car i have had . it took quite a bit of getting used to , but it was nice to have the pedal pushing back against my foot rather than it not doing anything and me overbraking. is it needed, NO. nice to have, YES. we get more than enough snow and ice here but for years all i had to drive was a camaro, if you drive like a human being in the snow non abs cars do just fine.|||an ABS system is nice to have but it still does not replace careful driving habits. Some people have actually gotten into accidents thinking that with the abs system they could step on thier brakes any old way and still come out of it smelling like a rose.


Also the ABS the car manufacturers like to tout somuch about on thier commercials is only for two wheels. To be truly effective it must be on all four.


PA has a good road maintenance system,,but many out there like to put the pedal to the metal. And you see many a semi down a ditch in the rain or snow.


When the roads are bad you should drive accordingly, that the best advice for anyone. Sometimes you'r late but so what? You got there in one piece. thats what counts.|||You are correct because it was an options for that vehicle if it was just your standard model and as for driving in the snow a vehicle cannot slow down and stop rapidly. Remember, everything slows down.





Don't use cruise control and and most important rule has to do with driving on snow and ice-covered roads.





Any changing of direction, such as changing lanes or turning corners, must be done without acceleration.

Anti-lock Braking System Pumps?

Can anybody tell me anything about how the Pumps inside Antilock Braking Systems work? Stuff like the fluid inside them, what pressures they operate at, what it actually does. That kind of thing.|||I don't think anyone will be able to answer this question better than HowStuffWorks.com


Here is a link to their site on how ABS systems work.





http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts鈥?/a>|||All the ABS pump does is to pressurise an accumulator so that as the dump valve solenoids close fluid under pressure can be fed back into the brake line to reapply the brakes.The judder you feel through the pedal is the shuttle valves opening and closing.The ECU controls the solenoids by sensing the ac signal from the wheel sensors and dumps pressure when it senses to fast a deceleration of a wheel.The pump only runs when the ABS is active and most systems run between 10 to 30 bar.Trucks don't need a pump as the air for braking is under pressure in the axle reservoirs so they only have modulator valves which dump air when the wheels start to lock|||http://search.yahoo.com/search?ei=utf-8%26amp;鈥?/a>


GO FOR IT!!





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